@Lost_N_BIOS these are all the stickers I could find: I sent them to you in private
here are the three dumps: https://drive.google.com/open?id=15ZRFID…zfYUb6D_3lnMlhv
CH341A programm v1.30 returns a message when I click on the detect button: https://imgur.com/568MGjl
CH341A programm v1.34 does not return this message
dumps.zip (29.3 KB)
Hello all,
Why on hell my CH341A is not able to detect any of my 2 BIOS chips? Ther is no way to detect them… I have 2 old MoBos:
- ACER Aspire 5920 - MXIC 25L8005 BIOS chip
- Samsung NP-RC530 - MXCI 25L3206E BIOS chip
I try to make tests with them, but it is imposuble. Ther is a very curious thing… There is one moment, I suppose when the CLIP is Ok connected, that the on power light in the MoBos gets on in both laptops (as you can see in the image.
In Samsung it blinks green-red, and in Acer it lights in blue. But neither in this situation the chips are detected. Even if I read the chips with the power light on, selecting both manually, all I get is FFFFFFFFFF…
I am a bit desperated in this situation. I am using both Programmer and ASProgrammer, with all versions of them, and even with a bootable Windows 7 x32 (I am stuck in Win 10 x64).
Some idea, please?
@Haplo you should not have the systems powered on, and in most cases you would want to remove the battery and main power cable too. Some systems may need main battery and or power connected, but never on.
I say this because you mentioned blinking green-red and or blue etc, none of those are programmer LED colors, so makes me think you have the systems you’re trying to dump from powered on.
Have you used CH341A before, successfully, or is this yoru first attempt? It may just be bad connection, what LED’s do you see on the programmer itself? One bright, one partially dim (While doing no read/write/detect) means bad connection.
There should only be one bright LED if you are doing nothing, then once read/write or detect the other will light up bright too. Anytime second is dimly lit it’s not a good connection or there is a power related issue (not enough, or too much etc)
@nicovon - You can ignore that message with 1.30 and proceed. I guess you should have been able to tell from the 30kb dump package, all are blank 
I don’t even have to unzip that
Got em 
* Edit - give me some time, I have one of these boards, so I can dig it out and get the exact location and format of how these details are put into this series.
UUID and or possibly serial will have to be partially made up, since you lost originals.
I have not connected neither battery or power, I have de MoBo totally out of the case.
No, it is not the flasher led, I speak about the MoBos power led, it is like through the flasher and the clip would provide power to the MoBo 
. The main flasher led light in red, and the other in red too when reading.
It is my first attempt… but I have checked the continuity between the end of clip pins and pins in the flasher (with the clip inserted), and it is ok. I have checked if there is crossed continuity between the pins of the flasher, and it seems to be ok too.
All those quotes just to answer me?? So, try with power connected then, since you have not already, some systems need that, also try with battery and PSU too if no luck with PSU alone. Do not power on system though.
2 RED leds on flasher during read means good connection, usually. It may be possible for that to happen w/ a bad connection, but I’ve not seen it (never paid attention at bad connection though, so may be possible it happens)
Bad connection between chip and clip happens ALL THE TIME, sometimes it takes me 20+ times to get it perfect, sometimes I almost give up and get out my proper BIOS jumper tool instead.
So, since this is your first time, I assume this is a clip/connection problem and you just aren’t getting it perfectly, that and or it also needs the PSU/battery for that board.
Trust me, looking connected perfect and actually being connected perfectly and securely are two very different things, and it’s often a pain to get it just right. NEVER will it take only 1-2 clip attempts, at least not that I’ve ever seen.
[quote=Lost_N_BIOS]UUID and or possibly serial will have to be partially made up, since you lost originals.[/quote]
@Lost_N_BIOS I thought you had completely recovered them from the stickers I sent you.
Hello, I’m welcome to the club too, right? 
Guess what, I tried to downgrade my BIOS to an older one using FPT(should’ve used AFUDOS instead) while on Windows. Reboot. It doesn’t work anymore. Turns on for a fraction of second, turns off. Keeps this cycle for 1 or 2 minutes. Completely dead. I’ve bought the CH341A and flashed the older one again but again, it didn’t work(what a surprise huh?).
There is only one remark, if I didn’t had used FPT but AFUDOS instead, the downgrade would be successful because I have done it in the past.
My motherboard has the ME_UNLOCK pin which must be shorted if I need to flash a bios, it’s a Z77H2-A3(I didn’t found anything on internet about this obscure motherboard), plus the manufacturer released the latest bios in a format that is only flashable through Windows(it’s a .exe). And I’m dumb like a knob because they stated on their website to not downgrade it, it would crash the system. However this time I commit the big mistake of making use of FPT.
I have the standard bios that came with the computer saven(how lucky am I, right?).
I was wondering what could be done in my case because when I try to flash through linux it says the .bin file is smaller around (6293kb) than the chip (8192kb) thus not able to be written.
ROM: MX25L6406E
Ah, here it goes, the standard bios.
https://mega.nz/#!WsUwzarL!qKDyM1MqYu7eu…ICJ_33vAmMM3Scc
gdrive:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fv_br9t…iew?usp=sharing
The latest bios file available on the manufacturer website is the: 30528_W_63EAh.zip
https://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Produc…155-LL-Intel-RR-
I read so many threads on this forum yet I’m not able to flash a working bios to this board, with the knowledge acquired here something makes me have the presumption that it is not possible to fix it, unfortunately 
@nicovon - Yes, I have your sticker images, did you see my post/edit above at #443.
Original info cannot be recovered in full, due to GUID is often made of date of manufacture details, and sometimes serial has that info as well, this is why I mentioned what I did.
I will try to dig out the board I have like this tonight!
@c00lkid - FPT works great, when used properly, I suggest this 1000% of the time over AFU every time. Sounds like you possibly flashed something incorrectly with FPT.
Please clarify, the Mega/google link, what BIOS is this, a backup, and if yes, what did you make this backup with (What software)? Do you have FPT backup from before you flashed with FPT? If yes, send me that.
ME Flash pins only need shorted if you plan to reflash ME or FD region of BIOS, this is not required every time, only if BIOS has updated ME FW in it and you want to update it.
This probably why your BIOS said you can’t downgrade after BIOS you used before, you need to downgrade ME FW too
Please also link me to your motherboard driver/BIOS download page, the above link is not valid. Or, confirm for me, which of these is the correct page to grab your BIOS from
https://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Produc…erview/0/1/1326 << I assume this one, but you know how assuming goes sometimes
https://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Produc…erview/0/1/1339
Also, hopefully you have not erased the chip or tried to write to it yet! Please dump the chip now, and send me that, with the above “Original backup” you made.
Not sure what you are talking about with “Some BIOS” being EXE or windows only? I don’t see any exe BIOS here or on ECS website.
30528_W_63EAh.zip contains an encapsulated BIOS region of the same name, and then flashing tools that are exe. You can’t program this BIOS region, nor should you ever try, even with capsule removed, you will loose your board specific details, serial, UUID, LAN MAC ID etc)
I assume that 30528_W_63EAh.CAP is what you programmed with FPT, correct? If yes, it warned you in bold red not to proceed, so you should have stopped right there!
Anyway, I need your original backup you made with software (Hopefully FPT, but if not AFU will do), and then I also need you to dump your current BIOS chips contents and include this as well.
Please archive these two things for me, and upload to http://tinyupload.com/ Or https://uploadfiles.io/
Or, some other free site is fine too, just not Mega or Dropbox.
@Lost_N_BIOS
The mega/gdrive link is a backup, one made with afudos while the me_unlock pins were in short. This file is named afuwin.rom.
I don’t have the FPT backup but at the same time I created my account in this forum and was researching on internet, I contacted the manufacturer and they released me one file that is supposed to work on my motherboard(I begged for the bios file from the support and they were comprehensive). I guess it can help you because I don’t have a backup from FPT but one file that contains the descriptor region was released by the manufacturer.
This is the file: 30528.BIN
https://ufile.io/k9f14hgy
My motherboard required to short the pins whenever a bios update was supposed to be done, but that doesn’t come in case now since I can manually flash it with the programmer.
Yes, this is the correct link: https://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Produc…erview/0/1/1326
The .EXE file I’m talking about is available on this website, look at the bios update section.
https://i.imgur.com/DMyt1Gp.png
No, I did not flash 30528_W_63EAh.CAP with FPT. I flashed the afuwin.rom with FPT. Just shorted the me_unlock pins and surprisingly it did not warn me about anything while flashing the afuwin.rom.
I never did a backup before attempting to write afuwin.rom(it’s a way old backup, but still one that worked, it’s originated from the motherboard).
So we have things like this.
Old backup from bios: afuwin.rom
https://ufile.io/4k3b3lze
Current: bios.bin
https://ufile.io/f0yltfiu
Manufacturer: 30528.BIN
https://ufile.io/k9f14hgy
Hope it can helps. Thanks.
It’s OK you don’t have a FPT dump, I only hoped you did, but AFU one will work OK since you had jumper on there (hopefully, I’ve not looked at file yet)
As mentioned, pins only need shorted to update ME or FD, not all BIOS will update ME, so it’s not always required.
However, they may have “coded” their flash programs to attempt to flash ME FW even if it’s not going to, so if that is case then yes all might fail without jumper, but it should only be required with BIOS updates that plan to update the ME FW
Or, if you use FPT from the stock package to flash with instead of AFU, and do not specify BIOS region only, that would make it write FD/ME too (FPT should never be used in this manner with stock BIOS anyway, you would always loose serial, UUID, and MAC ID)
Your image is about ME FW / BIOS update, were you on old BIOS with ME FW V7, so you had to use EXE to update your BIOS? So, that leads to this EXE, is that what you tried to write with programmer? >> http://www.ecs.com.tw/extra/windows_8_su…829(CPUEVO).zip
That contains Full BIOS, but not one you would ideally use with a programmer, or you loose your serial, UUID, LAN MAC ID etc.
I’m more confused now, you’re providing way too much information and files/links etc. I only need exactly what I asked for.
What is “Current BIOS”? What BIOS are you on now? I assumed system not working, so does current BIOS mean bricked BIOS that you dumped with programmer?
What BIOS do you want to be on?? I assume some older one, but which one (Just back to original?), and WHY would you want to do that?
Your backup BIOS (Afuwin.rom) is version 1.2, your messed up “Current” BIOS.bin is 1.27. 30528.BIN is also 1.27 version (Both 1.27 versions are BIOS after ME FW update to V8)
If you want to go back to original, I will have to find a proper full dump of your board that has ME FW V7 in it, since you do not have such a backup right now, so please wait while I try to find.
*Edit -OR, you can email them again and tell them you need the OLD ME V7 type BIOS (130103A) or whatever ME FW was before 8.1 BIOS (Maybe it was old Non-UEFI BIOS), not the new ME V8.1 BIOS they sent you.
I can only find latest BIOS in dump form, no where is the older BIOS type dumped, even on paid BIOS sites, so you will need to request this from them. I will try to downgrade ME manually for you and rebuild a BIOS, but I can’t promise this will work
*Edit 2 - @c00lkid - do you remember or know, what your ME FW version was before all this? Was your old BIOS non-UEFI Type, and the new one was UEFI (graphical type BIOS vs old plain text type BIOS)?
Sorry, I initially thought this was a ME FW V7 >> Vs >> V8 issue, but now I think it’s old BIOS style (Legacy, plain text) vs new BIOS style (UEFI, GUI type interface). Is that correct?
What is your BIOS Chip ID (look on chip, do not rely on software or detection)? And, what software and version did you use to dump BIOS with?
@Lost_N_BIOS
I was able to recover my bios by flashing it through linux and doing a clear cmos. My system is up and and running again. I used the firmware sent by the motherboard manufacturer and followed the instructions of this thread. Everything is flowing. I will answer your questions.
Your image is about ME FW / BIOS update, were you on old BIOS with ME FW V7, so you had to use EXE to update your BIOS?
Yes. My ME FW was old, could it be the cause I’m without audio? I don’t know why but my audio chipset didn’t work under windows 10 but on windows 7 it worked flawlessly, now it doesn’t work on both, not even on linux. It stop working completely. What could be the cause?
so does current BIOS mean bricked BIOS that you dumped with programmer?
Correct. It was the current, now the current changed to the one the manufacturer mailed me. I uploaded it and linked it a two posts ago.
What BIOS do you want to be on?? I assume some older one, but which one (Just back to original?), and WHY would you want to do that?
I wanted to do that to know if my audio chipset would start working again. However I measured the risks, doesn’t worth trying to make it work if I don’t know what I’m doing. If you want to guide and help me, that would be nice!
do you remember or know, what your ME FW version was before all this? Was your old BIOS non-UEFI Type, and the new one was UEFI (graphical type BIOS vs old plain text type BIOS)?
My ME firmware version was 7. It was UEFI since the begin, they just updated it because of the audio. You can see this is a problem with drivers/bios because they pushed an update strictly to fix this issue
@c00lkid - Good you were able to get back up and running again! I could have helped you to do that with the latest BIOS they sent you, but I assumed you were mainly interested in going back, I also assumed you knew you could put that BIOS on with programmer too but didn’t want to.
Yes, you could have corrupted ME FW, but it shouldn’t be that way if you were able to do a proper write of that BIOS (?) I’m not sure about doing from Linux, but with flash programmer it should have went on properly.
Check ME FW version in the BIOS system info area, or with HWINFO64 and see if you see 0.0.0.0 or N/A as the version, if so it’s messed up. To check that with HWINFO64 - on the large window on left side, expand motherboard and find ME area, inside that get the ME Firmware version
Also on Audio issue, make sure “Azalia” in enabled in the BIOS, this is the audio chip. I’m not sure what all you can see in BIOS, but it’s at Chipset >> PCH config if you can see that area
Good to know your ME FW was V7, I thought this may be the case, but wasn’t sure, since ME7 to ME8 and “Win8” update warnings/processes like the thing linked to EXE BIOS update at top of your BIOS section usually happened with P67/Z68 boards back then, but I guess a few Z77 may have been around right then too.
So, since it was UEFI type BIOS all along, what is your reason to want to go back and caused you to have to deal with all this? Hopefully once we fix your ME FW it will be OK (Audio I mean).
Please be sure to remove your ME jumper, and then load optimal defaults in the BIOS after that, then check the ME FW version stuff mentioned above.
Well, it did work without any modification to the bios file, that is a good thing. There is even some options I never saw before, that makes me happy. I’m thinking in buying a new audio chipset and try to swap it. What you think about this? Too much insane without testing anything? Ah, another thing, my MAC address was preserved even after flashing the bios file so I guess my motherboard is pretty intact and has solid information. I would like to try some tricks if it’s possible(to enable the audio). Another thing I would like to mention is, I have 4x4GB sticks of RAM DDR3 1600MHz. The motherboard doesn’t give any output on the screen if the 4 slots are populated but they work interchangeably or if I limit it to 8GB(2x4GB). Would be possible to unlock this? I guess it’s due the low CAS they don’t work ok together. Maybe it’s the motherboard, who knows, I would like to hear your opinion @Lost_N_BIOS
I have solid ME version on the bios screen, it’s the 8 version.
My audio issue, the azalia codec is marked to enabled, yes. I verified that multiple times.
Only the audio problem.
@nicovon - Sorry for delay!! Here is fixed BIOS, put on with programmer - http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil…412214747118451
@c00lkid - Swap audio chipset very difficult, unless you have hot air re-work station. Good to hear your MAC remained, it must be stored in LAN FW
If Azalia enabled in BIOS then audio is enabled, but fried, nothing you can do except replace that chip or pickup a cheap audio card, plenty out there with same realtek chip on it I’m sure, usually those are cheap $5-10
Do you have any 1GB or 2GB sticks? If yes, try one of those in all four slots, if it only works in 2 of the 4 or 4 of the four you may have damaged CPU socket pins.
If you don’t have any smaller sticks, does 2x4GB work in either set of slots? If yes, slots OK and CPU socket pins OK (See my last thought below, this applies here)
I don’t even know what motherboard you have since this thread is not specific to your system and I’m not digging back through here, but 4x4GB is often hard on many older chipsets and CPU’s, so you may just need to find correct voltages and or speed/timings for it to work with all 4x4GB
Usually for that, you need to increase CPU Vtt voltage, but again I don’t know what board, chipset or CPU we are talking about here so all this “in general”
@Lost_N_BIOS
I can use 2x4GB normally in the four slots. My motherboard supports up to 32GB of RAM at 2667 clock speed. It’s probably the chip that is fried, I mean, there is a noise in the front panel jack and it shows that both mic in and sound out of front panel are connected when they are not.
I will try to mess around with the timings to see if it works(the ram)
I really thank you very much for the time and effort you spent. unfortunately only the fans of the CPU and the power supply are running. no beep has been issued. maybe it wasn’t a chip problem …
update:
hum that was the first start attempt. on the second attempt, the PC did not start immediately, but after a couple of seconds, then it made a beep and started up. the bios has started and even windows, but the video signal seems intermittent and the system is very unstable. the keyboard and mouse does not work.
Update2:
On the third attempt everything seems to be working properly 
But how do you explain it?
@c00lkid - good, so any slot you put 2x4GB in 1+3 or 2+4 slot, and both show up in BIOS, and task manager shows 16GB total memory available? Be sure to check that in task manager.
If that is the case, then your CPU just needs some adjustments to run all that memory. This is very common with larger amounts of memory, it’s not so much about the timings, unless you are trying to run super tight timings, well maybe tRFC matters if that’s being set too tight by auto, but it’s more about CPU Vtt voltage usually
What motherboard do you have, and I can check your BIOS to tell you this exact voltage setting name.
@nicovon - sounds like you maybe had some bad settings locked in CMOS or something? Clear CMOS and then load optimal defaults and reboot back to BIOS, then make any adjustments you need, that should sort it all out.
Once you do that, also check BIOS Main page and see if you see ME FW shown (it may not be shown in the BIOS), if you don’t see there check with HWINFO64 and on the large window on left side, expand motherboard and find ME area, inside that get the ME Firmware version.
You are looking to see an actual version shown, if you see N/A or 0.0.0.0 or no ME FW section in HWINFO64, then you may need to reset ME FW with FPT. I’ll show you how if this is case.
When you program, do you Erase, blank check, then write/verify? If not, you should always do that to be sure nothing is left behind on chip before you write.
to clean CMOS, I removed the battery for about 10 minutes and then I put it back.
the problem remains.
it looks like this screen appears during windows startup: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ahy8Vz1n52vsVmiGA
then the PC restarts by itself, several times and after an unspecified number of restarts, it returns to the initial situation. it’s all very strange!
yes, before programming, I erased the memory with the "erase" button. then writing/verification was automatic.
@Lost_N_BIOS looks like I’ve fixed things. I removed the buffer battery and replaced it after 24 hours.
When the pc was first turned on, only the fans turned.
At the second attempt, everything proceeded regularly and without any problems.
So now everything is ok.
But I have questions:
first question: if I have completely rewritten the eeprom memory, how is it possible that something remained in memory through the buffer battery? I didn’t understand this.
second question: if the electric current stops suddenly while windows is running, can eeprom memory be damaged?
third question: if I press the power button, immediately after the PC has shut down, then with the fans still in motion, what could happen unpleasantly? I noticed that in this case the computer starts up a couple of seconds later.
--------------
can I send you the entire HWINFO64 report?: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1f0W_Rd…mM3cyKPnIaW07oJ
a doubt with this clip can I erase the bios completely to replace it with a modified bios compatible with a device like this?
my goal is to leave the dedicated gpu as primary and / or disable hypermemory
Hi all, I have IC with these information :
+Manufacturer : Cypress Semiconductor
+Series : S25FL128S
+Chip ID : S25FL128SAGBHIA03
Does CH341A or AS programmer support with this chip? If not, is there any another one can?
Thanks so much.