Just been having a mess around on my taichi tonight, this board is fucking incredible! havent had a lot of time lately with house renovation but i tell you what i bloody love this thing,
Experimenting with my 3466xmp corsair vengeance rgb ram got it memtest passed at 3466mhz in under 22 minutes! with 56.2ns latency and 23.2 GB/s bandwidth and 1.385v, and im still going! this thing impresses me more and more everytime i mess about with it, not even my mates £290 asus board can match its speed he maxes his exact same corsiar ram out at 21.6gb/sec and 58.8ns and 1.41v latency so there goes, this is indeed the one to buy guys. its running fast as lightning damn theyre good motheboards.
I feel sorry for these gigabyte owners though, the post prior to mine proves what a piece of dogshite they are churning out
Mate theyre complete dogshit arent they? i will never in a million years recommend any gigabyte product to a friend only an enemy, they are fucking awful. also note their intel boards and graphics cards are just as bad, only thing i can recommend to you sir is sell it before it totally fucks up like mine did, and destroyed a cpu along the way.
When I was putting together the parts for my new Ryzen system, my first pick was actually the MSI X370 Titanium board. That was the one I wanted. But, then I saw the price. Nice board, but the price at the time was a rip-off. So I went with my second pick, the Gigabyte X370 K7.
Sigh.
So, yeah, I’m now thinking of selling my K7. But, I’ll wait a while, to see what the deal is on the rumored upcoming Z490/X490 boards. I don’t want to replace this board, only for another round of improved AM4 boards to appear right afterward.
I can’t help but notice that both times my K7 has exhibited screwy behaviour, is a day or two after a BIOS flash. The first time I thought it was a coincidence. Now, after the second time, it’s clear there’s something very wrong with the Dual BIOS implementation on this board.
Well my K7 board stopped misbehaving with F23d firmware.
I essentially flashed back to F7a, then F23d.
So far my board isn’t crapping itself anymore.
Stuff doesn’t make sense, even to me, but it’s reality.
For anyone that hasn’t done so I really would recommend you switch the board to single ROM mode, flash the board with modded F23d, power down, flip the switch then update to modded F23d on the alternate ROM chip. A lot of problems do seem to stem from the board being in dual BIOS mode, its most likely a mismatching firmware problem but GB are utterly useless at fixing their own firmware problems theres only so much I can fix with the tools I have but by and large the issue is with GB R&D not having a feking clue WTF they are doing a chimp with a railroad spike jammed through their brain would be a step up. F23d is an improvement of pretty much any other firmware update but it is by far not good enough and the improvements are on AMDs side not GBs. I’m confident the situation will likely improve from this point onward but I have given the Gaming 5 countless chances to show it can be good over the space of just over a year and its just not happening. If you are stuck with a GB board use the modded firmware its your best bet but otherwise ditch the board GB have absolutely no clue what they are doing. Just today I went back to the GT7 after giving the GB board WAY more chances than I have ever given any other board and I do not regret it one iota. I’ll still make modded firmware for those less fortunate but GB are not a brand you should ever go with or recommend to anyone (not even your mortal enemy) ever. Go with Asrock or Asus, they are the people that have the most things in hand certainly far more than GB. As GB won’t listen to complaints the only way you can make them listen is through your wallet; Don’t buy the crap they are peddling.
I have set my board in single BIOS mode since F22. The backup BIOS has F22 in case I get a 2700X and the main BIOS craps on itself as I won’t be able to flash F7a with that CPU.
My K7 board seems stable for now. I ran AIDA64’s stress test for two hours, no issues found. I plan to leave overnight just to iron out remaining issues.
I agree the only way is to make them listen through our wallets, by not buying Gigabyte crap. While their hardware is good (or looks good), software is always crap. I don’t know what the hell they are thinking. They think hardware with good looks and a zillion power phases is enough. Shitty software can’t control good hardware. and will do horrors with it.
AndreDVJ,
The mediocre performance and build quality of gigabytes comedy boards is criminal, ive never known anyone to make boards this bad in nearly 30 years, my first serious home board was a QDI Legend with an intel pentium III 866Mhz and its still working after all these years! before this i only ever used 80486 machines but anyhoo, if you are unlucky enough you will find the dual bios functionality itself gets overridden with corrupted code causing an unbootable board after a shutdown throwing an error on the led readout, theres no warning it can happen at any time.
The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don’t think I can mount it anywhere else though.
I’d need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can’t hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I’ve reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.
Here is a view of my PC:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P8wrab…PwUFUPtaYKG1Muz
Bottom and front fans are intake. Rear and top fans are exhaust. The fans on the radiator are above the radiator in pull configuration. I removed the dust filter on the top a while ago, so it is just a grill now, which improved the temperatures.
I am running a test now with Prime95. The CPU temperature hovers at around 74C, the water at around 36C, and ambient temperature is in the low twenties.
I googled a bit, and it doesn’t seem uncommon for people to hear the pump (it sounds the same as in this video, without the weird rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foMis4DTzEQ). I get a speed feedback in Corsair Link and AIDA64, so it is running as far as I can tell (and I can hear it obviously). One review I googled that used the H100i V2 got around 65C on it while on load, but I think that was before the temperature offset was removed/changed, since using the standard cooler, it failed at around 75C, and mine fails at around 85C.
Maybe I should also mention I replaced the standard fans that came with the H100i V2 with Corsair ML120 fans, but from what I read I think they should give similar performance…
Is there anyway you can check the pump block for blockages on the cpu cooling plate? (fins) that cooler should be a massive improvement over the stock cooler, can these be re-filled? if the standard boxed cooler hits 3.75GHz yours should easily hit over 4GHz, im seeing a lot of people online changing the rads on these to a 3x120 after having a quick browse.
but even with a 2x120 rad they have over twice the cooling surface of the boxed cooler they should perform pretty good. have you tried push/pull fans?
if the radiator is getting hot its got a coolant restriction/slight blockage somewhere
The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don’t think I can mount it anywhere else though.
I’d need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can’t hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I’ve reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.
Here is a view of my PC:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P8wrab…PwUFUPtaYKG1Muz
Bottom and front fans are intake. Rear and top fans are exhaust. The fans on the radiator are above the radiator in pull configuration. I removed the dust filter on the top a while ago, so it is just a grill now, which improved the temperatures.
I am running a test now with Prime95. The CPU temperature hovers at around 74C, the water at around 36C, and ambient temperature is in the low twenties.
I googled a bit, and it doesn’t seem uncommon for people to hear the pump (it sounds the same as in this video, without the weird rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foMis4DTzEQ). I get a speed feedback in Corsair Link and AIDA64, so it is running as far as I can tell (and I can hear it obviously). One review I googled that used the H100i V2 got around 65C on it while on load, but I think that was before the temperature offset was removed/changed, since using the standard cooler, it failed at around 75C, and mine fails at around 85C.
Maybe I should also mention I replaced the standard fans that came with the H100i V2 with Corsair ML120 fans, but from what I read I think they should give similar performance…
Inadequate fans will have a dramatic effect on the cooling capacity of the AIO. High CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) is not the same as a high static pressure. For use with rads the higher the static pressure the better. That strange rattle you mention is a sign the pump bearings are / have worn out if ever I heard it as well. Regards the fan layout of your system if it were me the front and rear fans I would make intake fans, this would allow you to remove the fans over the VRMs. I’d also flip the PSU "upside down" as it would then allow it to benefit from a constant fresh supply of air in the case as well as having the PSU fan double as an exhaust fan. That setup would allow you to remove the fan next to the PSU as well. If you haven’t already I would also mount the AIO rad fans on the underside so they are directly blowing over the AIO rad this will give the benefit of a continuous fresh air supply from the rear intake fan while also having the advantage of the AIO rad fans directly blowing over the rad and immediately exhausting any heat while the AIO rad fans would also double as two more exhaust fans for any heat within the system that makes it up that far. I’ll attach a pic in case what I’m saying there isn’t totally clear.
I like to take a minute and say thanks for everything ket you have done a great job i gave up on my gaming k7 cause of gb and got an asus board and new 2700x
Definitely don’t use the official F22 firmware among other things the High Precision Event Timer is broken. It is strongly recommended to disable HPET for Ryzen but disabling HPET on the official F22 causes the system to fail to POST after disabling it then trying to restart the system from Windows. The system will also fail to POST if you disable HPET, save and exit, then enter the UEFI again and simply exit. Both scenarios are related to the broken HPET.
No problem. I’m certainly enjoying the GT7 a lot more than the Gaming 5 
The GT7 isn’t perfect but it’s a lot better than the G5 and the few issues it does have with the firmware I can quite easily fix (modded version will be available soon).
The fan header is set to 100%/maximum. Because the rest of my system is normally rather quiet, I can hear the pump when I put it in non-Quiet profile (whatever it is called), so I normally keep it in Quiet profile unless I stress test or encode videos. I have a 200mm and 120mm intake, and a 120mm exhaust fan other than the two on the H100i, so I think it is getting enough air. Also, it is on the exhaust side, so it is drawing (probably warmer) air from inside the case. Would it make such a huge difference? I don’t think I can mount it anywhere else though.
I’d need to see a few pics of your system with the panel off to offer some good airflow suggestions for your specific setup. If you can hear the pump the pump bearings might be wearing out even if I disable all of the fans in my system I still can’t hear the pump from my 240mm MasterLiquid and the pump on that I run 100% all the time. If you are considering a new AIO I would definitely recommend CoolerMaster AIOs I’ve reviewed a few of them and looked at just about every AIO in existence and the AIOs you can get from CM or NZXT (if you are willing to pay the prices of the Kraken models) really are the best.
Here is a view of my PC:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P8wrab…PwUFUPtaYKG1Muz
Bottom and front fans are intake. Rear and top fans are exhaust. The fans on the radiator are above the radiator in pull configuration. I removed the dust filter on the top a while ago, so it is just a grill now, which improved the temperatures.
I am running a test now with Prime95. The CPU temperature hovers at around 74C, the water at around 36C, and ambient temperature is in the low twenties.
I googled a bit, and it doesn’t seem uncommon for people to hear the pump (it sounds the same as in this video, without the weird rattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foMis4DTzEQ). I get a speed feedback in Corsair Link and AIDA64, so it is running as far as I can tell (and I can hear it obviously). One review I googled that used the H100i V2 got around 65C on it while on load, but I think that was before the temperature offset was removed/changed, since using the standard cooler, it failed at around 75C, and mine fails at around 85C.
Maybe I should also mention I replaced the standard fans that came with the H100i V2 with Corsair ML120 fans, but from what I read I think they should give similar performance…
Inadequate fans will have a dramatic effect on the cooling capacity of the AIO. High CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) is not the same as a high static pressure. For use with rads the higher the static pressure the better. That strange rattle you mention is a sign the pump bearings are / have worn out if ever I heard it as well. Regards the fan layout of your system if it were me the front and rear fans I would make intake fans, this would allow you to remove the fans over the VRMs. I’d also flip the PSU "upside down" as it would then allow it to benefit from a constant fresh supply of air in the case as well as having the PSU fan double as an exhaust fan. That setup would allow you to remove the fan next to the PSU as well. If you haven’t already I would also mount the AIO rad fans on the underside so they are directly blowing over the AIO rad this will give the benefit of a continuous fresh air supply from the rear intake fan while also having the advantage of the AIO rad fans directly blowing over the rad and immediately exhausting any heat while the AIO rad fans would also double as two more exhaust fans for any heat within the system that makes it up that far. I’ll attach a pic in case what I’m saying there isn’t totally clear.
He also needs to make sure the thermal paste is sufficient enough and is good quality stuff, the last time i put my other machine together i used cheap halnziye thermal paste and it just evaporated entirely!
No problem. I’m certainly enjoying the GT7 a lot more than the Gaming 5 The GT7 isn’t perfect but it’s a lot better than the G5 and the few issues it does have with the firmware I can quite easily fix (modded version will be available soon).
I love the design of that biostar, the racing flag theme looks ace and would suit any racing themed build very nice, the leds on it are of good quality too.
I just mentioned the rattle because it was in the video, but mine doesn’t have the rattle. It just produces the same humming noise when it is in performance mode.
Unless I am mistaken, I believe the fans that come standard are SP120 fans. The highest static pressure that I see for SP120 fans on the corsair website is 3.1mmH20, whereas the ML120 fans can supposedly go up to 4.2mmH20, so I assume they shouldn’t hinder the cooling performance.
From what information I could find when I decided on the fan layout, was that pull vs push gives similar thermal performance (push is slightly better maybe), but for the purpose of easier cleaning of the radiator, I decided on pull. I did use electrical tape to seal the gaps between the fans and the radiator so that it pulls the most amount of air through the radiator. I also don’t have dust filters on the rear fan, which is why I left it as an exhaust. Once I get the new motherboard, I can probably get rid of the VRM cooler. I am not sure the PSU fan ever turns on (extremely little dust on the air filter below the PSU), so currently I assume that, because heat rises, that the heat is causing it to pull air through the bottom dust filter. If I turn it around, I’d have to rely on there being enough of a positive pressure in the case for air to flow downward through the PSU. I would then probably have to try and seal the area where the 5.25 inch drive cage was to make that more likely.
I value your advice. I will look into various layouts when I install the new motherboard and have to anyway take apart parts of the system. It is a bit confusing though, since it is sometimes difficult to distinguish between facts and opinions, so I had to go with what made sense to me and what I could do with my case.
This was also something I considered. At first I used the thermal paste that was pre-applied by Corsair on the pump. After I sent away the motherboard and got it back (HUGE waste of time), I applied my own thermal paste (Coolermaster Master Gel), but I think it made no difference at all. Unfortunately I have extremely little choice in thermal paste, I have to settle for whatever the shop can get, or I’d have to import it.
I am not sure how I can check for blockages. The H100i is a sealed system, so as soon as I cut it open, I’d have to put in my own pipes, liquid, etc. and then it would just be a custom loop that I’d have to constantly maintain. From what I quickly googled, push/pull only makes a very small difference, if it makes a difference at all, so I might as well save myself the extra expense and fan noise.
Thanks for all the advice. I will take it into consideration and experiment a bit when I have to work on my system again when I get the X470 Tachi (hopefully). Unfortunately it is difficult to see an obvious point of failure that would cause such a large difference in thermal performance from what you suggest I should be seeing. When I stress test, the heat blowing from the radiator actually feels warm, so I assume the pump is working. If it didn’t look so unattractive or caused RAM clearance issues, I would have just looked for another large CPU cooler (I wish I was able to buy Noctua products…). I don’t think I want to risk custom loops either, and I don’t have space for larger radiators anyway. So I’ll just work with what I have for now.
There is nothing that is a certainty when it comes to case airflow what works best for one may not for another. My suggestions are based on a lot of different configurations I’ve tried even with knowledge in thermodynamics theres still a lot you need to simply try to see which scenario works best in your specific conditions and almost always the best solution is not something you will find in a textbook. ;o) As is the case for me I’ve customised everything in my system down to the smallest detail the benefit is I have a modular system I can move around easily while its almost as quiet as a full water system (literally the loudest fan is a 120mm rear intake which in and of itself is still whisper quiet) without the inconvenience of extremely high maintenance requirements of a full water loop or the inability to be able to move the system without draining everything while still maintaining temps that are well within acceptable levels (eg; while gaming I never see my CPU over 40c or my GPU over 60c). Regards push vs pull in every test I have ran I always found pull to be inferior to push on average anywhere between 2c and 7c. The most useless configuration is setting something up to have both push and pull configurations often I’ve found that component only dropped in temp by a very small amount while noise levels doubled. If you are fortunate enough to have a case where you can mount a 240mm rad above and "outside" of the case then you might want to try a push and pull configuration as it’ll have the most benefit by being able to more quickly get exhausting hot air up and away from the system itself. That might not be the best explanation its something much easir shown in a diagram.
Yes but with push pull both the fans are running at less than half the speed making the whole system silent, and getting the heat away from the rad much quicker
having just "pull" is a waste of time as the fan has to be set nearly full speed to drag the hot air out of the radiator, no matter what system ive ever built i have always done push/pull simply because of noise and i always got cooler temps, and ive always run them at 7v, you can get 7v from any power supply if you dont have a fan controller, +12v - -5v = +7v simply connect to red and yellow (or both ends) of a 4 pin molex plug.
remember heat rises it doesnt go downwards, so any case fan at the bottom of a case should be pushing inwards not out, but if you do this make sure there are no restrictions in the fan grill desgn, ie: MESH, that stuff will make your fans sound like a rocket and block inward airflow, cut it out with a dremel and fit a simple wire fan grill, they are the best. i dont know why they use this horrible mesh shit it destroys airflow literally. pcs are easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner set on blow.
Any case that doesnt have fans on top is a waste of money unless you mod it yourself, to get hot air out the back the fan has to work twice as hard, 1 fan on the top pulling out will do a better job than two on the back
Been using the GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI with my Ryzen 1600x since it launched (the board, not the 1600x :D).
Any love it can get, it needs, ive posted in the Gigabyte “forum” and put in tickets… deaf ears…
I keep going through modules and sending update requests when they are out of date 
supposed im evil…
Saw the GA-AB350N-Gaming mentioned once but didn’t see any reply regarding.
No worries if its not worthy of your love 
I still like my case (Coolermaster CM690 III), but there are a few aspects about it where you can now see that newer ones have made some design improvements. I’ll play around with the push vs pull when I have to work on the system anyway. I think that, considering that I have dust filters on my intakes, cleaning the radiator in a push configuration will also not be too much work. Once in a while I check what cases are on offer, but so far I haven’t found one I’d like to replace my current one.
Unfortunately I can only go from what I can read online, so it is a surprise that it makes such a large difference for you, but I don’t think I have the space in my case anyway to accommodate another layer of fans above the motherboard.
I only started doing minor mods recently, and so far they are all completely reversible, so I don’t want to start cutting holes just yet ;-). Considering we have 3 cats, I think it is safer for me to keep the dust filters. It is surprising how much stuff they catch, and I don’t want to end up having to clean all that from my radiator, even more so if I end up going for a push configuration.