[Problem] Bricked Asus Rog Ally RC71L after BIOS Flash

Need help, bios menu doesn’t load after flashing modded bios.

What I did:
Grab stock asus rog ally 2023 bios RC71L file from asus site
Drop file in uefitool, extract body and get clean ROM
edit it with Aptio V UEFI Editor (because AMIBCP crashes):
Unsuppress everything, change all access levels to 05
Flash to chip

I’m confused on how AMIBCP works though, editing bios of my ASUS B560m plus wifi was as simple as setting access level from DEFAULT to USER and it shows up fine

I flashed it because:
Completly broken bios, and missing most of the settings I need, eg disable TPM, virtualization, some CPU optimization settings. broken because unable to clear sb keys (error “Failed”), settings randomly reverting/changing after saving and rebooting. Worst of all SSD is not even recognized in bios and I couldn’t even boot into hirens boot disk to test anything “security violation” (secureboot refuses to disable entirely).

Side notes:
Bought it in the used market, guy said only issue was a bios password: Link to my thread (big thanks to Sparo)

I flashed it with ch341a 1.8v adapter via neoprogrammer, with wires, not a probe. The flash and verification were successful only after I added a 50uf capacitor to VCC and GND to smooth out voltage spikes.

The backups I made are partially corrupted, because at the time I didn’t know about the capacitor trick, voltage spikes caused random misreads.

Missing regions, like serials UUID etc because I flashed stock from asus site… AMIDEWIN shows uuid as a lot of “ff” and serials are “N/A”
Any idea why AMIBCP crashes with this bios? How do I fill my DMI info?

I don’t have any fancy equipment, I worked with:
Random heat gun with 2 speeds
Cheap iron, flux, solder, solder paste

Now:
It skips the boot animation and bios menu entirely, just boots to system directly (at least SSD is recognized now). When removing SSD, it still doesn’t boot to menu, but hangs at a black screen instead. Trying to manually boot to bios by mashing the vol down button is completely ignored, goes to system instead.

I’m aware that rushing this without learning enough was dumb, i’d like to learn from my mistakes and have some advice on what to do

I ordered a ch347 and a WSON8 probe adapter for this chip variety, expected to come by may 3-6

FOUUURTH_BACKUIP.part2.rar (8.0 MB)

FOUUURTH_BACKUIP.part1.rar (8 MB)

1-2_Backups.rar (9.1 MB)

third_Backiup.rar (9.1 MB)

Many thanks amazing community


Edit by Fernando: Thread moved into the “BIOS Modding Problems” Category and title customized

Update:
thanks for the edit fernando

I found a few files that may be useful for enabling undervolting CPU / overclocking memory, but i’m unsure. but i’m also curious, if the bios lock is removed, would softwares like throttlestop work or automatically blacklist the cpu because it is in unsupported list?

This would be amazing for a device like this, because it overheats a lot and consumes lots of power.

I’m unsure if they are of any use or not,

Also can i fill in my dmi info here:

If anyone knows anything, I’d be very grateful.
Edit:
Forgot to include other options like AMD CBS are also visible, CPU

Thanks!
files.rar (205.3 KB)

Hello, i have the same flashing setup as you, but with WSON8 pogo pin (and i also trying to unlock rog ally bios pw). Does this modification helped you from false reads? Because when i try to identify/read chip, it throws to me lot of errors, and when it finally starts reading bios, data is corrupted.
You just soldered capacitor to 4 and 8 pin? Nothing else? Because looks like that wire from pin 4 isnt connected to the programmer on the photo.
Also earlier i read/write W25 series chip from Legion Go with this setup, all went smoothly from 1st try, no such modifications needed, i think it because of different circuitry on board, less voltage leak?

Also i have answer for your question about unlocking undervolting. This is not possible on Z1X CPU (R7 7840U), AMD locked here voltage curve from factory, so if you try to change it, you will brick your console, and you will need to reflash your bios to stock one again.

If you want to experiment with hidden BIOS settings, i can suggest to try Smokeless_UMAF, but i think you cant do much here.

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Hi, really sorry I haven’t seen your message, but here’s a reply if you’re still curious

The board draws around 120-200mAh and the ch341a/ch347 cannot provide, so I added a capacitor between GND and VCC to smooth out those false reads which I assume are voltage spikes or too much current draw. Also in the photo, I must’ve uploaded the wrong one, see here I was trying to give it power via an external source vs the capacitor, safe to say the capacitor definitely worked better. Also if you are using a WSON8 Probe, You do have to scratch off the first layer of the chip’s pins, my guess is due to oxidization, flux from the factory or another layer that’s giving you bad contact, but it worked for me. Use a thin cutter, slowly and gently so you don’t scratch the PCB traces.

Do check out this guy’s channel, super fun and nice videos overall
Sorin

As for the BIOS pw, if you don’t care about serials you can just flash over it, worked for me at least, but anti-cheats and other software that may have license verification over HWID may give you headaches in the future. But you can randomize/set your own serials later maybe via HxD or some better method, I’m also still learning

Also this photo you see was a disaster because I was waiting for a WSON8 Probe to arrive and it was gonna take a while

Also thanks for letting me know about the undervolting, smokeless umaf was def very fun to tinker with, and whenever I screwed up too badly I just came back with the WSON8 Probe :laughing:

Edit: You can also find Sparo, He’s a genius at this idk how he recovered the passwords but I do remember someone mentioning something about a salted sha256 database of known passwords.

Wish you best of luck and hope you figure it out!

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