OK, well first, you’ll want to make a full programmer backup, then test flash in the mod BIOS via FPT again and get that 204 error.
But for now, since you are not ready to use programmer, just in case, I would flash back in biosregst1 before you reboot, in case it’s bricked on reboot.
It (the mod/FPT) may be fine even though that 204 error, but you wont know until reboot, and for that, you want to be ready with programmer and backup already made.
Here is guide on using programmer. You’ll have to tell me your chip ID, read off the chip with your eyes, before I can tell you best software/version to use
[GUIDE] Flash BIOS with CH341A programmer
Make sure you seen my edit at 166
It may be best, if you can, to take this system home with you, since I am not here all the time, and we may want to do a few programmings with programmer over several days
Well, fortunately I know how to work with the programmer
A full programmer backup ? Is that a dump made with CH341A program v1.**, right ?
When I sent the last dump, you told me to use the 1.34 version - or maybe I’m wrong.
This guy doesn’t have battery, I will turn it off and then it is brick - I’m f#/$%&$ up So, I will leave it here today, and tomorrow I will do the backup and all the magic suggested by your majesty.
Good, sorry, I misunderstood you, thought you needed to know how to use programmer
Yes, full backup I meant with programmer. For W25Q64FV use 1.30 or 1.34 and W25Q64BV ID - Or Colibri and FV ID
Sorry, not sure what you mean about battery mattering here? If you want to be 100% sure no brick on reboot, flash back in your latest FPT Dump, then all will be OK
There shall be no magic, it may be huge pain and hassle with many flashes (programming) to get this fixed to before the AFU flash issue started.
That’s why I added my last edit in at 168, about bringing the system home with you.
I was hoping that I would be able to bring it home, as it was in Sleep mode - without bricking it. So I can finish the job at home and then start the backup.
But that’s ok, I will flashback the latest dump via FPT and then I will turn it off and go home.
a huge pain with flashes + with soic8 clip - when I made the last dump, it took me some hours to connect the clip and make it work.
Sleep mode wont help if no battery, or does it not need that for sleep?? I would flash back in your latest FPT dump to be sure, then you can reflash the mod via FPT at home once you are ready.
Ahh, yes, if it’s a major pain with programmer, that’s why I said maybe best to just flash this with AFU and call it a day, it may take several programmings (stock, then fixed system info stock, then sort KB backlight somehow, then all FPT stuff etc)
I am not sure, if you can dump with programmer, send to me, I put in mod then you program back, not sure if that will work or not, due to this AFU 204 issue (and if so, that issue would remain)
Daaayum, man I’m too tired, so don’t expect a good explanation from me The idea was the following: I was hoping that I would be able to bring it home, as it was in Sleep mode - but unfortunately this guy has no battery, that’s why I decided to leave it at work turned on - to avoid bricking after restart.
But now if you say that it should be OK after flashbacking the latest FPT dump - I will bring the laptop home to perform surgery.
Humm, so if I flashback the biosregst1 - it should boot and work ok as before, right ?
If so, I will do this - and then I will order a Pomona 5250 clip (just to avoid all the mess with the regular cheap SOIC8 clips) - and after that, we can start all that procedure with flashes, fixing, FPTing etc. What do you think ?
::: UPDATE :::
Sorry for the delay reply! I just noticed your reply above, and since we were talking in PM too, not sure if I replied about that there or not, I thought so?
Yes, flash back latest FPT BIOS region dump before you reboot.
OK, yes, we’ll wait for Pomona clip (Be sure to order lots of M/F Dupont cables, or you’ll have to make your own)
You can get bundles of 30-50CM one x 120 cheap, then string them together to make longer cables.
I thought you were tired of my BIOS adventures.
I flashbacked the latest Bios region dump - everything is fine now.
I have a a ton of dupont cables, if these are ok - then there is no point in buying more:
Elegoo 120pcs Dupont Wire
While with Pomona 5250 it’s more complicated, I found a few in stock but the delivery lasts from 30 days. Most of the sources I checked - have no stock.
I’ll try to find it later, if I can’t find it - I think I’ll risk the clip I have… there will be more trouble but I have no choice.
@Lost_N_BIOS
Today I tried to backup with programmer + my cheap SOIC8 clips = 4 hours lost in vain
So, I will wait for Pomona 5250, which will be available / in stock in 20 days.
I changed the CMOS battery today - checked the contacts, connector etc. - everything seem to be OK.
But unfortunately the problem isn’t gone. The laptop automatically powers up when I connect the AC adapter.
The time looks the same wrong but different from before - if before it showed a random time, well now the time is a bit late but close to the correct time.
I disconnected the laptop from the power supply at 19:26, after about 1 hour - I connected the laptop to the power supply and it was showing 19:30.
@EthanWalker - No, sorry if you felt that way, I didn’t meant to make it seem like that
Yes, those cables will be perfect How long until you Pomona clip arrives?
My only concern here is the situation with the laptop, either not being at home with you for days, or being a work/production system.
Due to the way we have to work, with me only being able to reply sometimes once or twice a night, and what we need to do may take a few days of that, hopefully you can get it home and not have a rush to get it back to work the next day.
I’d like to >> Program in stock BIOS w/ unlocked FD/BIOS Lock Disabled (wiping out your system specific details) >> Fix KB Backlight (assuming it broken here/now) << Try to do with FPT/Programmer
Then >> Confirm FPT Dump/edit/flash back OK here, if programmer used at last step above >> Fix System details back >> Unlock BIOS again >> WIN
The fix KB backlight may take a few things to sort out, we need to find exactly which byte is holding the activation of this now, may take a few attempts to sort via NVRAM adjustments
But, in my mind, after we program in stock BIOS step above, we can go ahead and confirm FPT dump/Edit/Flash back is OK, and then from there out not have to use the programmer anymore.
In the end, we may find that all the time I put into working around that padding removed/added issue (which initially made me remove some microcodes in first edit,but not last), may be the cause of 204 error this last time.
I doubt it, but I am not 100% sure, we will find out though once you have programmer in hand and we start testing FPT edit/flashing.
* Edit - Didn’t see your last reply above until now. Was the CMOS holder loose in any way?
Can you easily see the backside of it? Is is clip in socket, where battery snaps down into it against the PCB, or wire connector to some shell/holder that battery goes into?
Do you have multi-meter, and if so, was the battery you removed under 3V?
Maybe it could be ME FW issue, causing some battery problems, and this auto-start up? We will sort it out.
Does BIOS still have a delay at startup? And, if you load optimized, save/reboot, change some single setting in BIOS away from that optimized default, save/reboot to windows, shut down, remove main battery and PSU cable and let site for 10 minutes.
After that, boot to BIOS, is your setting you changed the same as you changed it to, or now back to default?
Aprx. on December 10 it will be here.
When the Pomona will arrive - I will take out the SSD with the system and will use it on another computer, SO the laptop will stay home for surgery.
When the laptop will be home + I will have the decent Pomona clip = I’m ready for any steps, with programmer, with FPT, with anything else - just to see this guy working.
Nope, it is a wire connector, as you said.
Yes, I tested with the multi-meter: the old battery was under 3V, more precisely: 2.91V
Yes, still have and I would say that now - the delay is a bit longer.
When I connect the Power Adapter - the laptop starts up (I can hear the HDD) then, after 3-4 seconds the Screen+Keyboard ligh up both in the same time - and then all the rest: system, Asus logo etc.
Ok, I will check this and update the post.
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@Lost_N_BIOS Yes, I did all that you said:
• the time resets itself to 00:00:00 / Year: 2009
• the BIOS settings resets to default
+ the delay now is present not only after I disconnect the laptop from the power supply - but also when I perform Cold Boot.
Check the connector itself on the CMOS,make sure it’s snug, does not jiggle, and check back side to make sure solder looks good on backside where it goes through.
Also, the cable itself could be bad solder connection, on either side, check that best you can too.
The end of your comments above, confirms something is wrong at the CMOS battery, either the battery holder, either side of the cable connector, or the connector itself on PCB side
All those symptoms of no CMOS battery installed, at initial boot fail safe settings are loaded, memory is re-training (sometimes two reboot may happen due to that too, but only certain systems)
@Lost_N_BIOS
The 1st programmer I had - has been returned to Amazon due to the defected plug.
The 2nd I returned to the local service center (I kept the SOIC8 clip)
Now I bought another programmer (without clip because I have one). The programmer works with no problems: no half plugging, no weird flashing leds etc.
Anyway I couldn’t get the job done. The same problem, the same symptoms.
The notebook has no battery, I removed it 2 years ago.
The CMOS battery has been removed since the first test with the programmer.
I tried to connect the clip in many ways.
Atached the clip THEN connected the programmer / Connected the programmer THEN attached the clip in various positions.
Plugged the programmer into 1 notebook then I tried on a desktop.
My paranoia told me that I should try to plug the programmer into a USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 and 3.1, so I did that.
Applied kapton tape on the resistors.
Tried not to breathe during the working process.
And the final method that IMHO had to be done from the beginning, tried to attach the clip looking through magnifying glass and verifying each pin on the chip/clip.
Nothing worked for me. It makes me sad because now, the only way is to take off the chip from the board, which I don’t really want to do.
Sorry for the quality, shaking hands… It is not so easy to hold the phone and attach the clip at the same time
hi bro, I face same problem. programmer disconnects after connecting bios. how I u resolve?
Hey,
Well, in my case, I solved the issue by getting another programmer.
I’m not sure if you have the same problem… sometimes the programmer disconnects - when the SOIC8 clip is faulty or when it is not correctly connected to the programmer or to BIOS chip.
Make sure everything is done properly - sometimes, all the process with programmer and connecting it to BIOS chip may be tricky.
@Lost_N_BIOS
Hey my friend!
Sorry for delay - I received the Pomona 5250 clip on Friday… it was very hard to get one, after facing some issues with Amazon delivery - then with local post office loosing my parcel etc.
Now I have it and I’m ready to follow your instructions!
By the way:
Some days ago - I restarted the laptop - it turned on with a significant delay between Windows loading and Logon Screen.
But it didn’t end there, an artefact also appeared - a part of the screen is magenta color and looks like a “burn-in”, similar to the one on the OLED screens, when you close some windows and there remain traces of icons and text.
@Lost_N_BIOS
Hi Lost, I wanted to start using my Asus G751JT again but soon realized that I stopped using it because a wrong flash. Unfortunatly I don’t remember what bios version I used before. The notebook starts (keyboard lights turn on) ROG Logo lights up for a second and than the screen goes black with the backlight remaining illuminated and thats it… I already made a dump and attached it here (double checked with colibri and Ch341A Prog.) I just made a fast check (flash) with a bios from another user an the notebook turned on and everthing worked great but the LEDs from the keyboard were not working, I guess because its missing information from my system. Hope you can help me out.
g751cor.rar (3.22 MB)
need help to add nvme support, thank you!
Asus ROG G751JY
Bios version: 213
CPU: i7-4860HQ
PCI-E 2.0 x4
afuwin.zip (2.31 MB)
@Lost_N_BIOS
i know i’m late to the party but i do have a few questions. i don’t know anything about microcode so i wonder how much of a difference is between a Intel® Core™ i7-4710HQ and a Intel® Core™ i7-4720HQ? The latter is the CPU i have in my ROG G751-JY Laptop (with latest 213 BIOS). I saw there is a file that already got modded to support NVME disks. Would that one work on a i7-4720HQ as well?
Also you mentioned this BIOS was a PITA to mod due to size limitations (of the BIOS chip i assume)? Can the chip be replaced with something a little bit bigger? hose chips prolly do not cost a fortune so i’d be absolutely willing to spend a few dimes.
Hopefully you are still acitve here and will find some time to reply. you can also PM me directly since this is kind of an old thread.
if you read this tx in advance
regards.
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