[Request] Unlocking Lenovo Legion 5i BIOS

BIOS/UEFI Modding BIOS Modding Requests
1

Good day, all help is much appriciated!

Goals:
1) Unlock undervolt
2) Unlock advanced bios

Model: Legion 5-15IMH05H (Lenovo) - Type 81Y6
Processor: 1x i7-10750H
Memory: 1x 16GB DDR4 2933
Wireless Network: 1x Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX 22560 2*2ax non-vPro
Included Warranty: 2 Year Depot

I’ve been unable to extract the bios with UEFI Tool, I’m only getting the following error “Invalid UEFI volume’”. Any suggestions?

EDIT by Fernando: Thread title specified

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Where is the link to the BIOS and how did you try to extract it?
The UEFITool can only open "pure" BIOS files, but no Installer (*.exe) files.

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Yeah, I extracted the .exe with 7zip first. Tried to use UEFITOOL on the bios.fd file.

Bios: https://pcsupport.lenovo.com/no/en/produ…ame=BIOS%2FUEFI

It’s strange, on reddit there is one guy able to do it (on another pc) and someone on the same pc as me (legion 5i) unable to do it: https://www.reddit.com/r/Lenovo/comments…web2x&context=3

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The 7-zip tool is not able to extract the BIOS file from the Lenovo Installer package.

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Use Innoextract, this is Inno Setup package, as with many Lenovo exe packages
Then either run the Insyde exe and grab BIOS from %TEMP%, or extract it with universal extract (1.6.1 better than newer version)
Then, you need to cut the 16MB BIOS from the 17.2MB FD file. In the 17.2MB FD file, BIOS image starts at 0x12F150h and ends at 0x112F14Fh

Anyway, none of this is useful to unlocking the BIOS

Please do below, we’ll see if we can fump, unlock, dump again, then edit and reflash using FPT - OR, if flash programmer may be required
You need this package >> CSME System Tools v14.0.20+ r7

If you have already modified the BIOS in ANY way, you will need to re-flash it back to factory defaults using factory method (NOT FPT)!!!
Additionally, please remove all BIOS passwords, disable secure boot, and disable TPM or Encryption if you have enabled. Do this before moving on to below

If you do not have Intel ME drivers installed, install them now from your system driver download page, then start over here after reboot.
Check your BIOS’ main page and see if ME FW version is shown. If not then > DOWNLOAD HWINFO64 HERE <

Once HWINFO is open, look at the large window on the left side, expand motherboard, and find the ME area.
Inside that section is the ME Firmware version. Take note of the version. (ie. write it down or get a screenshot)

Once you have that, go to the thread linked below, and in the section “C.2” find and download the matching ME System Tools Package for your system.
(ie if ME FW version = 10.x get V10 package, if 9.0-9.1 get V9.1 package, if 9.5 or above get V9.5 package etc)
> DOWNLOAD " ME System Tools " packages HERE <

Once downloaded, inside you will find Flash Programming Tool folder, and then inside that a Windows or Win/Win32 folder (NOT x64).
Highlight that Win/Win32 folder, then hold shift and press right click. Choose “open command window here” (Not power shell! >> * See Registry file below *).

If you get an error, reply to this post with a screenshot of it, OR write down the EXACT command entered and the EXACT error given.

((If “open command window here” does not appear, look for the “Simple Registry Edit” below…))

Step #1
Now you should be at the command prompt.
You are going to BACKUP the factory un-modified firmware, so type the following command:
Command: " FPTw.exe -bios -d biosreg.bin "

>> Attach the saved "biosreg.bin ", placed into a compressed ZIP/RAR file, to your next post!!! <<

Step #2
Right after you do that, try to write back the BIOS Region dump and see if you get any error(s).
Command: " FPTw.exe -bios -f biosreg.bin "
^^ This step is important! Don’t forget! ^^

If you get an error, reply to this post with a screenshot of it, OR write down the EXACT command entered and the EXACT error given.

Here is a SIMPLE REGISTRY EDIT that adds “Open command window here as Administrator” to the right click menu, instead of Power Shell
Double-click downloaded file to install. Reboot after install may be required
> CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD CMD PROMPT REGISTRY ENTRY <

If the windows method above does NOT work for you…
Then you may have to copy all contents from the Flash Programming Tool \ DOS folder to the root of a Bootable USB disk and do the dump from DOS
( DOS command: " FPT.exe -bios -d biosreg.bin " )


Also, might as well get ahead of things here, along with above, also download the following package, and run the command below from each versions folder that directly contains it’s exe. Before doing this, make sure you have secure boot disabled in BIOS, any BIOS password removed, and TPM/Encryption disabled.
Once done, copy the entire folder somewhere, delete everything but any created vars.txt and then repackage this and send to me, this way all created vars.txt remain in place in the folders of the version that created them.
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil…212104496994806

H2OUVE.exe -gv vars.txt

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hi, i think you might be referring to my reddit thread "Working Legion 5i undervolt" "reddit.com/r/LenovoLegion/comments/ieje84/working_legion_5i_undervolt/"

using the RUEFI tool was simple to enable undervolt and worked great, if only i had stopped there but i’ll circle back to what i mean by that in a minute. in regards to the EFCNxxWW.exe and extracting it you just run the the exe and it will ask if you want to install or just extract content, choose extract only and select where you want it extracted to. then you get to the bios.fd




my specs are the same except i have the 17" model with the RTX2060
Legion 5-17IMH05H (Lenovo) - Type 81Y8



@Lost_N_BIOS sorry if this might be considered threadjacking, i will gladly create a new topic and remove this post but i thought this may benefit both the OP and myself. i only post here since its the same laptop of which i had a user on bios-mods.com (dudu2002) mod the bios for me and unlock all possible menus. i still have all the requested info from dumps including the original bios dump from cmd.exe, the modded bios binary that was flashed via SPI programmer/clip.

when i first flashed the modded bios using AsProgrammer 1.4.1 it worked fine, i verified it before disconnecting, plugged the battery and cmos battery back in and i was able to boot to bios and i had the full advanced menu and then some (a lot more options than i could of hoped for), i enabled the XTU Interface opion (enables undervolt capability), hit F10 to save/exit and ever since then my laptop will no longer POST. the power light comes on, the screen never turns on (not even a backlight black screen), the CPU stays cold and the fans never run, after 5-10 seconds the ligh shuts off and it repeats the cycle over and over until i unplug the battery. when i tried to reflash the bios chip again with the SPI programmer it wasnt able to detect the chip anymore which turned out to be the SPI programmer itself going bad after 1 flash operation. i ordered another and im now able to flash the chip, i have tried AsProgrammer and a couple other windows based CH341A SPI tools. i also tried using flashrom from linux which writes and verifies without errors but im still stuck unable to get the laptop to post.

i’ve essentially turned my nice new laptop into the equivalent of a $1600 table leg stabilizer. i would be more than happy to pay you for your time and valuable knowledge as i have already done with the person who modded my bios who has been trying to help me over the past few days figure out what went wrong but im afraid he might out of ideas. im familiar with linux/windows and willing to try any suggestion you may have or promptly reply with any information you may need. thanks for your time

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@dglt - No worries, all on topic to me, I simply said that about “none of this useful” because my intention was for him to dump then edit, then flash back his BIOS.
That is much easier than flashing in a modified stock BIOS, using some modified stock method, and or certainly should NOT be used w/ flash programmer etc.
Which is what you did, with flash programmer, dumped your current BIOS contents, dudu2002 unlocked for you, then you programmed it back in.

Programmer may or may not be required here, but we’ll have to find out after user follows through with above and sees if we can work around the locks via RU or vars dump/edit/reflash

Your issue, may be due to your were using XTU in windows already, correct? If yes, this needs to be reset to stock first, then uninstalled, to avoid such issues.
Sometimes it’s OK, sometimes not, so best to reset and remove, since once you flash in mod unlocked BIOS XTU in windows is no longer needed.

What is your BIOS chip ID? This is probably the problem, only certain software/versions can write to chip properly (or chip ID may need to be not exact too)
And it’s possible you picked a good working combo on your first programming, but since have changed and tried other software/versions but never that same first combo again.
All you need to do is program back in that already confirmed working (correct? I think so) mod BIOS that you confirmed worked initially, but this needs to be done with compatible software/version/ID

Unless, at some point, you tried to erase or write to some other chip that was NOT the BIOS???
If you did this, and didn’t dump it first, then you may have to find that chips dump from someone else, hopefully you never did this and ONLY touched the same single BIOS chip always.

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thanks for the reply, the process that was used for modding the bios was in order:

1. use SPI Programmer >> clip onto bios chip >> dump the original existing bios using AsProgrammer 1.4.1
2. provided CH341a dumped bios to modder >> waited for him to send it back modded.
3. use AsProgrammer 1.4.1 to write to the bios chip via SPI programmer tool.

i will put these mentioned files,dumps, original bios, and modded bios as an attachment or link them to a file host.


the FPT dump and logs are in the linked zip file, the FPT tool detects the chip as "MX25L12875F" but the chip itself is labeled as "MX25L12872F". since none of the programming software has a listing for MX25L12872F i used the 75F instead. the working combination was using the MX25L12875F chip ID and programmed using AsProgrammer 1.4.1 and i have tried numerous times to repeat the simple process using both the modded bios and the original dumped bios, and even the bios dumped by FPT as well but the result is always the same.
- power light comes on >> cpu remains cold, backlight and fans never come on. >> after about 10 seconds it shuts back off >> 5 seconds later it repeats the cycle over and over until i disconnect battery.


i had already uninstalled XTU before beginning the process


i thought the same but regardless of which bios i flash the outcome remains the same, just a power loop and no POST. even if i completely zero/erase the bios chip, the power loop is still the same. i cant make sense of what could of actually gone wrong. i’ve tried writing the modded bios only, i’ve tried manually erasing >> unprotect >> write, and i’ve tried 3-4 different CH341a software on both windows and linux and results are always the same.

there is 1 error i get with a certain ch341a error when it’s in the "verify" process and a screenshot of that app/error is here https://imgur.com/a/F6j2k7b



i have only written to 1 chip and it is actually right there in the bottom left corner (closest to the battery) as soon as you remove the back plate of the laptop. since the numbers did not match the FPT output exactly i ended up removing the board to see if there was another chip on the back side that did match but there was not. once i was sure that it was the correct bios chip, i then sent it to the modder who then modded it and returned it. i flashed it, it worked and i had advanced bios menu, as soon as i rebooted the power loop started and has since remained that way no matter what i do.

Q: is it possible that even though i am still able to read/write/flash the bios chip, it could still be damaged from that first SPI programmer that went bad on me after the first flash?
i appreciate your help on this, i honestly dont know what to do at this point.

Hosted zip file with FPT dumps/logs, original and modified bios: <removed link and sent via direct message instead>

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@Lost_N_BIOS

i tried flashing with v1.31 but when i try to verify it after i get the error “Chipwith the contents are in disagreement”. also doesnt boot unfortunately, same power loop. i’ll hold off soldering the new bios chip until i hear back from you on whether or not you think it could be the chip or something else.

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@dglt - I mainly replied to post #8 in PM earlier - In case you missed it, for MX25L12873F use CH341A v1.31(1.4) (CH341AFree) (This is the name of the folder, choose 25 and correct size), ASProgrammer 1.4 or 1.41, or CH341A v1.1.1.32
For MX25L12872F, most users I’ve seen have had success with ASProgrammer and 3F ID, but I’ve not had anyone test the other two I mentioned above which have been confirmed working for proper read/write with 3F chips.
So, for 2F, use ASprogrammer 1.40 or 1.41, or one of the other two I suggested above - http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil…213094641136166

I do not think it’s the BIOS chip, only the contents in it are not correct yet.

@gentlemantroll - Sorry, I forgot to tag you above, posted a reply for you at post #5, so we can get starting unlocking your BIOS, hopefully without programmer

11


last night i went and tried your suggestions about which app/version to use and i also tried using MX25L12873F and MX25L12875F separately. on each flash i did in this exact order: select chip type >> erase >> empty check >> write >> verify.

the apps i’ve tried doing this with are : (from the tools you linked)
- CH341A v1.31(1.4) (CH341AFree) (flash set to 16MB/128Mbit and used the detect function, fails to verify)
- AsProgrammer 1.4.1 (tried both 73F and 75F, verify just says "done" without any further info)
- CH341A programm v1.30 (flashed as MX25l12873F, fails to verify)
- Colibri_program-1.0.1.61-CH341A (tried both 73F and 75F)
- flashrom from linux (i think it was 73F listed only)

unfortunately, none of them changed the power loop behavior whatsoever. the only way to stop the power loop is to disconnect the battery, otherwise it will continue this loop for hours.



the only reason i suspect the bios chip is that something caused the first SPI programmer to go bad and i was thinking it may of damaged the chip at the same time. does that sound possible or no?? i confirmed it was the programmer itself that went bad and not the cable/clip since both work with the new spi programmer.

the original method used to flash the modded bios the first time was AsProgrammer 1.4.1 using 25F and that was the first and only time i was able to boot after flashing. the next time i plugged in the SPI programmer it wouldnt even detect the chip.

i know on some chips you can short 2 of the pins while power is plugged in to force it to reset to defaults, might this help and is that an option on my particular chip? and if so, which pins would i short?

i also found this on the macronix site where it compares the difference between the 72F and 73F and something stuck out to me. 4k secured otp vs 8k secured otp, might this be why?
From macronix data sheets:



EDIT:

also had another thought after doing some research, it seems most of those ch341a mini programmers are incorrectly using 5v for SPI programming when it should be 3.3v . my MX25L12872F is supposed to be read/programmed using 2.7-3.6v (3.3v). i still have not soldered on the replacement bios chip because i want to see what else you might suggest first.

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@dglt - To clarify steps >> Erase >> Blank check >> Open BIOS File >> Write >> verify.
Then, if it’s not working with software/versions I mentioned, redo the exact same once again, but do not power on system.
Close app, open app again >> Read, Verify, save and then compare in hex editor with the file you are writing, if it’s 100% match then the write was good and the BIOS file is either bad or there is some other hardware or EC FW issue etc

Whenever you see fail to verify, don’t waste your time trying to start, that means fail Do you have main battery attached, or PSU? If neither, see if main battery help any or not, then see if PSU connected only helps any or not.
With the software/versions I mentioned. If NOTHING is verifying properly, then you have an issue here, and one or both of these may need connected, or removed if currently connected. The software I mentioned is confirmed working with this chip.

Manually verify a write the way I described above, with something that does not fail verification and that you have not tried to power on after the write (because this changes the data)
Then you will know if the chip is bad. I doubt chip is damaged, they are very hard to damage. Unless you see or smelled magic smoke, I doubt anything is damaged, even then it would usually be some voltage protection IC on the board, or blow/lifted trace from a short etc (not the chip itself)
If you had a programmer blow out on you while connected to the board, inspect the board all around the chip, do you see any lifted, burned, or blown out traces? If not, good, but this still does not rule out overvoltage protection IC’s, those can be blown/tripped during something like that, and you can’t physically see them go bad usually

The short of BIOS you mention is only possible on some dual BIOS boards, or may sometimes invoke fail safe/CMOS clear etc, in this case you are directly programming the chip so that is not needed nor would it change anything, only risk actual damage to the board/voltage protection IC’s/traces etc
72F and 73F have been confirmed working read and write with the info I gave above, so no, OTP does not matter really, you’re not programming that anyway and ins software 1.30 be sure this is not checked in “Operate” option 25/26 chips tab, at bottom, make sure “Main Memory Only” is checked.
For ASProgrammer, hit the unlock icon (not drop out, just the lock icon) first, then continue with rest of programming steps.

Quad I/O just makes programming slow sometimes, but this is not an issue either really, I confirmed 73F myself with the CH341A v1.31(1.4) (CH341AFree) and ASProgrammer, see here, both images

*Edit - Please upload the file you are writing for me, and any previous dump you made with programmer or FPT from before you did anything with the BIOS, if you have one.

13


i’ll do this again right now and i’ll also link you to the .bin file im flashing as well as the saved result from reading it after closing >> opening >> read/verify since im not sure how to directly compare one with the other.


no, i always make sure that i have both the main battery and CMOS battery disconnected before doing anything with the SPI programmer. are you saying that i should try flashing with the main battery plugged in? do i also leave the CMOS batter plugged in?


thats good to hear, and no i looked over the board back and front and i didnt see anything burnt but it’s also not very easy to see sometimes.


its already set to "Main Memory Only" but is it possible one of the other tools could of erased the secure otp? (tbh i dont even know what s-otp is or does)


i will try with both 1.4.0 and 1.4.1, and to clarify i’ll be doing in this order
open ASprogammer >> detect/set to MX25L12873F >> erase >> verify empty >> Unprotect/unlock >> write >> verify >> close AsProgrammer >> open AsProgrammer >> detect/set to MX25L12873F >> read >> verify >> save copy for comparison.
let me know if that doesnt sound right.


the original FPT from before doing anything was in the .7z archive i sent to you via DM but i will include it as well as the .bin file being flashed and the saved .bin file after reading the chip so you can see if anything looks wrong.

EDIT:
info as requested, includes the original FPT dump, the .bin i just flashed with AsProgrammer 4.0, and the .bin i saved after reading/verifying the chip after flashing.
https://share.unixfy.net/gfdhkw34.7z

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@dglt - Sometimes, you may need to have one or the other, or both connected or removed. So you may need to try with one or both connected and see if that works any better
We’ll know fur sure once I look at your post write dump, if it’s a match then this is not part of the issue.

No, none of the other tools would mess with OTP, this isn’t part of the issue either way either, even if erased
Yes, your outlined steps for ASProgrammer sound good, but I would hit unprotect before any operations! And sorry, yes, I forgot I had those FPT files from you already

I checked your flashed-modded-bios.bin + read-verify-after-flash.bin and this = 100% hex match, so writing to BIOS is not an issue here
Where did you get this file you are writing? If you created it, what was base source of files, and what tools/method did you use?
Ohh, never mind! I see, this is your mod BIOS, and you already confirmed this was booting and working, I gotcha

Here, program this back with ASProgrammer >> Detect >> unprotect >> Erase >> Blank check >> Open BIOS file >> Write >> Verify
I suspect ME FW may be an issue here, since your OG chip dump and Mod BIOS from that same OG chip dump, the ME FW do not match, and that should not have been touched as part of the mod process
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fil…209194630487053

Try these BIOS in the following order >>
1. Fix2-OGReg-MEFWBack
1. Fix1-OGRegionBack

Then if it starts booting again, I will help you to unlock the BIOS menus again, unless you want to go ahead and program back in the original unlock you received, up to you.
This BIOS, if it fixes things, it based on your original FPT backups, so stock menu for now, just to see if we can get it back to life or not.

In case none of those work. What is the exact full model of this system, so I can try and find the EC/KBC FW.
And, do you see other SOIC8 chips on the board, if yes, tell me what chip ID’s you see and I’ll tell you which might be the EC FW, then you can dump and we can see if that “looks” OK (Can’t check with anything, only see that it’s not blank and doesn’t “look” corrupted)

15



awesome, thanks. i will give these a try in a few after my coffee so im not making stupid mistakes.


i understand, at this point the priority is making the laptop work. modding can come later and i wish i came here first and posted an unlock request, when i posted on the bios-mods forum i had a response in a few minutes so i didnt get a chance to post the request here which i planned on doing. originally i wanted to use RUefi if possible as to avoid having to use an SPI programmer but the response i got was "dont expect miracle, need flash".



Legion 5i 17" laptop, i7-10750H/RTX2060
Legion 5-17IMH05H (Lenovo) - Type 81Y8
Machine Type Model:81Y80007US


if those are supposed to be identical to the bios chip then no, i did not see one on either side of the board. since i was told my bios chip was "MX25L12875F" according to FPT i ended up taking the entire board apart when i only found the 72F chip.


EDIT: im gonna go try flashing the bios you provided. quick question though, is it possible that since the bios chip is supposed to be programmed with 3v and the SPI programmer is using 5v that it could cause problems?

EDIT2:

ok, so i tried both of the .bin files you provided. i tried each with and without battery connected but unfortunately there was no change . is there anything i can do to make your job easier? i could probably get someone to do a fresh FPT dump but it would most likely be from a 15" version of the legion 5i whereas mine is 17".

event log from AsProgrammer 1.4.1 for the last flash done.

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&#1055;&#1088;&#1086;&#1075;&#1088;&#1072;&#1084;&#1084;&#1072;&#1090;&#1086;&#1088; SPI, I2C, Microwire FLASH/EEPROM v1.4.1
http://forum.easyelectronics.ru/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10947
[email protected]
Current programmer: CH341
ID(9F): FFFFFF(Unknown)
ID(90): FFFF(Unknown)
ID(AB): FF(Unknown)
ID(15): FFFF(Unknown)
Current programmer: CH341
ID(9F): FFFFFF(Unknown)
ID(90): FFFF(Unknown)
ID(AB): FF(Unknown)
ID(15): FFFF(Unknown)
Current programmer: CH341
ID(9F): C22018
ID(90): C217
ID(AB): 17
ID(15): 0707
Current programmer: CH341
Old SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
New SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
Current programmer: CH341
8:38:25
Possible protection is enabled. Press "Unprotect" and check datasheet
Erasing memory...
Done
Execution time: 0:00:30
Current programmer: CH341
8:39:15
Verify memory...
Done
Execution time: 0:02:12
Current programmer: CH341
Old SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
New SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
Current programmer: CH341
8:42:21
Possible protection is enabled. Press "Unprotect" and check datasheet
Erasing memory...
Done
Execution time: 0:00:01
Current programmer: CH341
8:42:22
Possible protection is enabled. Press "Unprotect" and check datasheet
Programming memory(verifying)...
Done
Execution time: 0:06:06
Current programmer: CH341
ID(9F): C22018
ID(90): C217
ID(AB): 17
ID(15): 0707
Current programmer: CH341
Old SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
New SREG: 01000000(0x40), 11111111(0xFF)
Current programmer: CH341
8:55:04
Possible protection is enabled. Press "Unprotect" and check datasheet
Erasing memory...
Done
Execution time: 0:00:29
Current programmer: CH341
8:55:34
Possible protection is enabled. Press "Unprotect" and check datasheet
Programming memory(verifying)...
Done
Execution time: 0:06:08
 

 
16

Yes, all could have been done using RU, any changes you wanted to make I mean, BIOS mod is generally not required if you just want to change a few settings.
Yes, other chip will look like the BIOS one, but would not be same chip ID. Sometimes there is not one, and it’s on other type of chip, but usually there is SOIC8 chip for EC/KBC too, size 128KB-1MB generally

No, 3v-5V thing does not matter

Please try write again with #1, then without powering on, close the program, open the program again and then >> Read, Verify, Save and send me that file, or you can compare if you know how.
Compare this in hex to the file you wrote, if it’s 100% match then write is OK. I will check out the BIOS again and see if I can figure anything out that may be off.
I will also make you a near 100% stock BIOS, so booting should not be an issue at all, if this is a BIOS problem (This way your dump is not part of the questions here)

FPT dump from someone else should not be needed, we have yours anyway. I am not sure if the “Full” dump from your FPT folder is actually full though, I will have to look through it again. Did you try programming that back to chip already, as it is?

17


i can take another look but i didnt see any 8 pin chips similar to the bios chip but then again im only human so i could of missed it.


ok, i will do another write of the first one, then close/open and do a read and save it for comparison.


that would be great, whatever you think would work. i would like to say that the FPT dump i provided was from an untouched bios but im 99% sure i had already made an edit to it with RU to enable undervolting before i ran it and i cant say for sure if TPM was disabled when i did run it. the person i paid that walked me through all this was not a man of many words and was a little vague on instructions, i think there was also a bit of a language barrier so that didnt make it any easier.


i’ve tried flashing every single .bin i have multiple times using different tools. this problem has my stomach in knots feeling like i may have permanently bricked my brand new laptop somehow. the power light comes on but i cant hear anything going on in there, no inductor noises or anything. the power button light is the only indication anything is turned on.

i just got done reading through your other thread involving the MX25L12873F, poor guy having to re-solder for every flash, but it’s good to see you seem to be someone who enjoys helping people do this stuff

18

i used colibri this time set to 73F

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ChipList.dat version: 11/13/2018.152
CH341 programmer not found!
Selected device: SST25LF020A,Capacity: 256Kx8
Manufacturer: SST
CH341 programmer detected,
I2C bus frequency 400KHz
I2C Slave Address = 0xA0
 

JEDEC ID(9F) = 0xC22018
RES ID(AB) = 0x001717
REMS ID(90) = 0x00C217
 

JEDEC ID(9F) = 0xC22018
RES ID(AB) = 0x001717
REMS ID(90) = 0x00C217
 
Selected device: MX25L12873F,Capacity: 16Mx8
Manufacturer: Macronix
Erasing...
(Press Esc to cancel the operation)
Erasing completed.
 
Loaded file Fix1-OGRegionBack.rom 16777216 bytes
Check Sum: CRC16 = 0xC14D, CRC32 = 0x472BB727
 
Writing...
(Press Esc to cancel operation)
Writing completed,
Writing time 173.7 sec.
 
####################33
##################
 
AFTER CLOSE/OPEN/READ/CHECKSUM
 
ChipList.dat version: 11/13/2018.152
CH341 programmer detected,
I2C bus frequency 400KHz
I2C Slave Address = 0xA0
 
Selected device: MX25L12873F,Capacity: 16Mx8
Manufacturer: Macronix
 
Status Register1 = 0x40
 
Reading...
(Press Esc to cancel operation)
Reading completed,
reading time 127 sec.
Check Sum: CRC16 = 0xC14D, CRC32 = 0x472BB727
Check Sum: CRC16 = 0xC14D, CRC32 = 0x472BB727
Loaded file Fix1-OGRegionBack.rom 16777216 bytes
Check Sum: CRC16 = 0xC14D, CRC32 = 0x472BB727
 
 

i assume the matching checksum between flashed and reading after means they match?

edit: also, didnt boot. same power loop.

your .rom file i flashed and the read i did afterwards. https://share.unixfy.net/write-read-colibri-compare.zip

EDIT #2:

i had someone with the same specs legion 5i do a dump of an untouched bios, same cpu/gpu but its the 15" version. the 15" and 17" both share the same bios. https://share.unixfy.net/same-spec-model-dump.zip
19

The only way to know 100% for sure if write was valid is to close the program, open it again then read, verify, dump, and then compare that in hex to what you wrote.
Generally though, once you know what program and ID works for a valid write (ie you did a manual compare like this already), then you don’t need to do it anymore and you can trust that your writes are OK each time you use that same software/version/ID

Did you try writing in that other users dump and see if it boots or not?

Did you test both BIOS I sent you? From your link above, that is the second one I suggested you test. Write is 100% match, so you’re good there, no need to compare anymore

20


ok, then i should probably stick to AsProgrammer 1.4.1 since it’s the only one to ever write, verify, and boot. it’s also what i used to write and read the files you verified as matching.


yes, but unfortunately it still does the same thing.

- since last night i have tried flashing multiple versions of bios including the ones you provided as well as some others. i tried the modded version which i know has booted before and i tried flashing it with and without power (when this worked a few days ago it was flashed with all power disconnected).
- on each attempted boot i gave it a full 2 minutes of power cycling before pulling the plug, then i tried again after pulling 1 stick of ram but the behavior doesnt change.
- even with no ram and no hard drives installed the power loop behavior is exactly the same.

i really dont know what to do here but i know its too late for me to send this in for warranty and i cant afford to buy another one. a new motherboard costs more than i paid for this entire laptop so thats not an option.

i dont have a very high quality camera, just a phone but if you think me pulling out the motherboard and getting as many photos as possible will help then i can do that, there must be ways of telling if any of the components are damaged, no? i have a multimeter if thats whats needed to test.

EDIT: also, why does the FPT dump produce 2 .bin files? is each one from a separate chip?
-----------------------------

ok, so i’ve been at it with a meter for hours trying to figure out exactly what is going on. i started checking the on board fuses to see if power is getting from one side to the other, i have only checked 1 side of the board with the meter and 1 thing that stuck out to me (or burned me for that matter) was that the only place i feel any heat being generated was from the nvme/wifi mount areas of the board, after removing the wifi adapter and nvme i can see the heat is coming from the other side of the board and it’s very hot. i’ll attach some pictures of the front side of the board showing the bios chip and anything else you might see that im missing.

i will send pics of the back side once i have it out. and to clarify, this spot gets very hot just from having the A/C adapter plugged in and also when only the battery is plugged in. i do not need the laptop power to be on for this to happen.

Front side MB pics: https://imgur.com/a/B1kiV2s

Back side MB pics: https://imgur.com/a/hhxcXTl

the first 2 pictures of the backside are of the same section, i circled the chip that gets super hot whenever power gets plugged in and circled a chip that had a lot of haze on it, not sure why

EDIT 2:

the chip that gets burning hot only has "RE=78 50W" written on it but i cant find reference to it anywhere.