So I have a dead bricked Asus N56VZ. Some questions

I followed this guide. https://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-G…57279#pid157279
but my dumb dumb head didn’t dumped my bios using afuwin. instead of that I grabbed a UPDATE bios file which was 6 mb (instead of 8) from ASUS website. I flashed it using Afuwdos using the command /GAN. it told me to force update bios? so ı said yes and now I have a bricked laptop.
I will however repair my computer and flash the correctly dumped bios file using an SPI flash programmer, well at least an technician will do it because I don’t know how to remove the motherboard.
Now some questions
the bios file I found (the 8mb one. the correct one) was in .bin format. Do I change that to .rom format? if so, how?
anything else I should know about??

can anyone help? plllease?

.rom and .bin are normally- related to bios files- not different file types. Anyway, it could help to post the file you want to flash…

Will post it ASAP!

Also the bios file I plan to flash is also unlocked.

Motherboard does not need removed, and I would not flash in stock BIOS further with programmer by you or technician, before you dump BIOS fully with programmer, so you can get your serial, UUID, and LAN MAC ID

bin/rom are same thing, but many asus BIOS update files are often in a capsule, so even named .211 for example could be bin, rom, or cap, so you need to confirm what it is with BIOS tools before doing anything.
Stock BIOS, along with the rest of the actual Full BIOS, programmed in via FPT or flash programmer will make the board run, but this is not the proper way to recover this system.

You can fix this yourself with a $2.50 Flash programmer (CH341A) + a SOIC8 Test clip with cable, all you have to do is remove the bottom cover of the system 99% of the time. At those prices shipping is 3-5 weeks though
Let me know if you need link examples to these items on ebay. You can get them shipped faster, or from more local seller to you, or from other stores too, but price will be 2-3x more

I checked the BIOS update for your system, version 217, this is an encapsulated BIOS file, so body must be removed from the capsule before being used for anything.
You should have waited for my reply, I see your comment on that other thread now, since I found I already downloaded this BIOS and started to look at and unlock for you.
I also told you in that thread how exactly to test your mod changes properly, at least how to test flashing in a “general mod test BIOS” anyway to see if your mod changes worked (much more than AMIBCP is needed to edit this BIOS to unlock it).
But anyway, I gave you info to proceed there, unsure why you went with AFU anyway despite my warnings. Nothing you can do now except get the tools I mention above.
Don’t pay someone else to fix this for you, they WILL make it worse (Worse for you later, as we’ll have to fix everything), and they’ll overcharge you way more than necessary.

@Lost_N_BIOS
thank you so much for the reply! I talked with my techniciaan and he said that the bios chip is completely damaged and needs to be replaced. he is doing it at a very reasonable price and he says that he will do a thermal cleaning (which was the problem I had to begin with) for free! Again, I don’t knoww how to thank you :))
If I decide to mod my bios again with one way or another (I don’t think will happen but who knows maybe I’ll hve an issue with thermal throttling) I’ll definitely contact you by posting a thread. :slight_smile:

@celloh - You’re welcome!

He’s wrong, or he’s lying, unless he damaged it by trying to remove it, or fried by connecting programmer backward - which is hard and you have to leave it frying a long time. Software flash like you did cannot damage a chip, at all.
Most likely all lies, that or he’s not skilled enough to program it in place (Doubtful, I’m sure he has the tools and know-how), probably say this so he can charge you more $$. BIOS chip cost $2, and that’s buying one piece at a time, if you buy x10-100 prices go down, so he most likely gets it cheaper and already has on hand.
Programming takes 2-3 minutes, double that to desolder if he actually replaces the chip (again, which cannot be needed from a bad flash, only physical or electrical damage caused by him) Reasonable price for this is $10, maybe $20 if he has to charge you a half hour work time or something.
As I mentioned above, he wont take the time to save your serial, UUID either, maybe you’ll be lucky and LAN MAC ID is stored in chip instead of in BIOS, if it’s in BIOS he probably wont get that either, so all this will need fixed once you get it back.
Unless you get super lucky, and have found the one BIOS tech repair guy that cares, I’ve never seen one mentioned by anyone in the world yet, at least not one that works in a repair place that charges for such things.

Save yourself from future recovery hassles, and pickup the two items I mention, they cost $7 shipped for both together on ebay, and can save you from all this in the future on any board.
This will also allow you to modify and flash any BIOS you want without having to try and find the way to wrestle it in there (no fighting with flash tools for mod BIOS, program whatever you want, whenever you want)



@Lost_N_BIOS ummm… Im a noob so I have to ask.
What do you mean by that?

Often the MAC address of your network card is stored in your bios, a serial number, maybe license information for Windows OEM versions, other stuff. See the example for an ASUS board- ‘neutral’ update bios on the left, ‘individualized’ bios dump from a specific board on the right

p9di.jpg



Normally a dealer wouldn’t care (or maybe wouldn’t have the skills) to search for this information in your old chip. As your dealer already stated that the old chip is damaged he possibly won’t even try to read its contents…

On the oher hand- when writnig with GAN- option a 6MB file would afaik mean that the flash started at 0x00 and only the last 2 MB of your old bios chip could contain some information?
@Lost_N_BIOS What does /GAN exactly do- will it flash right from the start or does it recognize bios/ gbe/ me? Or do the different AFU*-versions mean diferent behaviour of the GAN option?

@Lost_N_BIOS @lfb6
what happens when the bios don’t have the MAC address?
is it bad?

@Lost_N_BIOS @lfb6
I just told the techniian if he could read the MAC address from my old bios chip and he said that the chip is dead and nothing can be read or written to it

You can edit your posts if noone’s answered yet, so you could avoid answering yourself…

It’s highly unlikely that you destroyed the chip by your actions. You could damage the chip physically by using an SPI programmer with wrong/ too high voltage, maybe- but by software flash?

so does something bad happens when there is no MAC in the bios?

@lfb6 - I’ve not inspected enough bricked BIOS in these instances to say for sure, if there is a for sure, what happens to the BIOS region. This also probably depends on what the source material was, bad mod, good mod, stock extracted, in capsule etc.
I also have not inspected enough dumps in a similar situation to know what happens with this kind of case when BIOS region only given vs full BIOS, so unsure where it starts the write.

I do know in many cases, even badly bricked BIOS, you can often pull some details, if not all details. So, always dump the chip, any repair tech would know and should do this, unless as explained above they don’t care/lazy, unskilled, no tools etc.
In this case, I assume one of those mentioned above would be excuse given, since he already lied and said chip damaged from failed software flash (which is not possible, as we both have mentioned)

@celloh with no MAC ID in the BIOS stock placeholder would be there, either all FF’s or 88:88:88:88:87:88, and your Ethernet would not work due to bad MAC ID. That’s all this is about. Sometimes this is not stored in BIOS, it’s in the LAN Chip, depends on the board setup

In general, what I meant about pulling this info from your old BIOS dump, this takes skill and time to do, most wouldn’t take the time because they don’t care, so excuse would be given (like what you got, damaged chip = lies) or nothing mentioned and item given back without a word said about it.
Even if this info couldn’t be pulled from chip, it’s on stickers on the board, at least some of it, so it would take time for them to take note of this and inject into repaired BIOS too, which same (lazy, usually don’t do etc)

When will you have the system back in your hands?

@Lost_N_BIOS I just had the system back. and well the wifi works but the system won’t detect my geforce 650m. I don’t wanna jump conclusions without trying so I’m not saying they stole it but I am tryingto figure it out

EDIT: Nevermind, I fixed it!

Good your LAN is working at least, probably only due to MAC ID stored in chip instead of in BIOS (or maybe he’s reading this thread, and knew he better take a second to copy it over ).
Often if VGA doesn’t work, they flashed in wrong model BIOS (Also common with these people)

Please run these commands and check your serial and UUID
wmic csproduct get name,identifyingnumber,uuid
wmic baseboard get serialnumber,product,Manufacturer,version
wmic bios get name,serialnumber,version

Also, download CPU-z and check the motherboard tab, to be sure BIOS is correct model

@Lost_N_BIOS UUID is FFFFFFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFFFFFFFFFF (oh-uh)
serial no is SSN12345678901234567
motherboard bios is the latest and correct version

See, I told you that would all be lost, BIOS repair guys that charge $$ are the worst breed

Did you confirm the BIOS is for your correct model? I meant for you to look at that, not just the version (like some might be similar, usually they mess that up too, but maybe your model is the one he’d pick and mess up someone elses N56VK with

Please remove the bottom casing off your system, give me images of the sticker on the back (outside), and then any you see on the inside of the back case (maybe none), and images of all stickers you can see on the board.
Be sure to look on and around the memory slot, also pop the memory sticks out too, sometimes sticker hides under there. This will let us fix your serial.
UUID I will regenerate a new one, it’s usually Date of Manufacture + serial with MAC ID at end, or Date of Man + random+MAC at end, all depends on how Asus did it for this series, I’ll find another dump and figure it out.
With the zip archive of your images, please also include your LAN MAC ID on text file.

@Lost_N_BIOS I’ve never tried to remove the back case but I will try :smiley:

It should be 8-10 tiny screws, it’s simple to remove, just don’t loose the screws (put in a bowl).
Remove battery first, then remove screws and pop bottom off, here is two different complete tear down videos, but you just need to do the bottom casing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTYA897wPto
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkMOckd4Un8

But, if you do not plan to ever RMA with Asus, and windows stays activated, we really don’t have to fix your UUID/Serial, it’s only important for those two things and sometimes it doesn’t matter about windows.

You don’t have any old BIOS backups? Even years old one would be fine, and would contain this info.

What is RMA again? And well I’ll proably won’t do that

RMA - Return Merchandise Authorization, when you are in warranty and you return a system to Asus or reseller for repair/replacement etc.
Usually that is only possible for 1-3 years, or less, unless you purchase some expensive extended warranty.