@Phoenix48 thanks for the reply. i didn’t made a fresh windows install on the nvme drive. i have cloned it from the SSD i already have. Do you think if i made a fresh install of windows on the m.2 nvme drive, it will work ?
You can also try to verify this:
- Try booting using F8 while the Bios start. This is very rare but, after a new installation, i once had to, kind of, make the link between the Bios and Windows by “pointing” what was the right drive to start Windows in the list of drives with F8. I had to do that only once. Worth a try. It is also possible that in the F8 list, you see “Boot manager” instead of PATA. At the time, if my memory is right, i had to choose “Boot manager”.
- Check in the Bios if there is “Boot manager” in the list of drives you can choose to boot. Worth a try there too.
- Be sure your new NVMe drive is in the same partition system as your old one. Usually in GPT for a SSD. Rarely in MBR. If it not the same, that would explain why Windows won’t start. A winddows intalled in Legacy mode (MBR) in your old drive will not start in UEFI mode (GPT) in your new drive and vice-versa. Also be sure your new drive’s filesystem is in NTFS.
- If all that fail, then yes, a fresh new install can be considered.
@Flygye
I forgot to say that if your old SSD drive was not in NVMe and was working in SATA then it is still probable that a NVMe driver is not installed in Windows.
@Phoenix48 I’m trying to install macosx (i mentioned before in the thread) in the macosx amd forum someone told me that i am not able to install it because the AGESA version so i’ll try with a different version (original version instead of stable mod), but if you have a mod version with newer agesa module it will be great for me, then i can try to install macosx with a newer agesa module. Also if you have a tutorial on how to build my own uefi version it’ll be welcome
@acasas
There are many reasons to not try to change the AGESA version but if you want to go that road anyway, i suggest you first try one of the old beta version in the first thread and see how it goes. As to how to change AGESA yourself, i described it somewhere in this thread. In any cases, it is strongly suggested to read everything about it in this thread to be sure you know all the risks and consequences.
Alternatively, and far safer, i would instead recommend to use Clover to do what you are trying to do. I suggest you take a look at it. This would enable you to still have the best updated Bios on your system for Windows AND the best Bios configuration (with Clover) to install a MacOS system. This way, you get the best of both systems.
As an alternative to Clover, you can also take a look at OpenCore.
BIOS with AGESA v1.5.0.0 updated to v17
Changelog:
[Changed] - OROM LAN Intel Boot Agent GE v1.5.88 -----> v1.5.89
Hi. I’m not getting a POST on on v17. Any tips on recovery?
@pershoot
You can try to clear the CMOS. If nothing works, you can read the last parts of the first post of this thread where i give tips to try to make the Bios recovery kick in.
@pershoot
Also, verify that the Bios was not corrupted during the download. Otherwise, it won’t work for recovery either if it is the problem. Also don’t forget to rename the Bios to C5F.ROM or the recovery won’t work.
Completely dead (red light next to DRAM on) . Clear cmos jumper on board and back, nothing. Rog switch to off and usb stick with C5F.ROM (stock bios from ASUS) at root in rog port and usb 2.0 port, nothing. All sata unplugged.
Any other ideas on recovery?
@pershoot
Maybe the DRAM red light is a clue. It seems to be stuck there. I suggest you try booting by keeping only one stick of RAM in the system. If it doesn’t work, try keeping only another one in another slot and so on. The goal is to be sure your problem is not a bad stick of DRAM, or a DRAM slot that is dead, or maybe just a DRAM stick that is not well seated in its slot anymore. Any of those can cause problems and testing them is unfortunately the only way to be sure it is not the problem.
Nope no go. Doesn’t seem like a dram issue. All was working fine just before flash. I used asus bios UI utility to do it.
I just need a way to force it to reflash a bios and it doesn’t seem like it wants to…
Cpu led stays solid. Dram led is off. Unfortunately, I don’t think I can recover in this state.
@pershoot
One possibility is also that the Bios chip became dead while flashing. A Bios chip become used and degrade each time a flash is done on it. Usually, it last a long enough time but sometimes you get a chip that doesn’t support many writing done on it. When the failing occurs, the chip you try to write on it stop working and the Bios become corrupted and the chip is bricked (Because no longer able to write). If it is what happened to you, the only solution to keep the motherboard is to buy another Bios chip and replace it. Fortunately, those usually don’t cost a fortune and, when they are not soldered, imply only to remove the old one and put back the new one on the motherboard.
Ya, I may try that. Thank you.
@pershoot
I took the time to flash v17 on my motherboard again just to be extra sure everything was fine with it and i can confirm that i have no problem at all flashing it. So you can be sure the Bios itself is not the problem. Like i said, chances are your Bios chip reached its end of life and is no longer able to write. There is also the more remote possibility of a Bios corruption during the download in a way that prevent the recovery to kick in. It is possible but somewhat less likely. At this point, it seems a new Bios chip and a flasher are your only option other that change the motherboard. If it is only a Bios corruption during the download, only the flasher is required.
PC is back after post insertion of a preprogrammed bios chip.
Thank you for all of the support you have given this legacy platform! 
Hi there,
I’m currently running the BIOS with AGESA v1.5.0.0 updated to v17.
My rig is as follows:
Crosshair V Formula
AMD FX9590
16GB DDR3-2400 Kingston HyperX Beast RAM running at 2133 DOCP
NVME SSD connected via PCI-Express slot
Nvidia GTX1070
Corsair HX850i PSU
When going to the GPU.DIMM Post screen the machine hangs and when going to check the volages under the BIOS, the machine hangs and starts to display small dots on the screen. Everything else works fine in the BIOS
I have all power connectors plugged in, including the EZ-Plug connector (Thought it could help with the FX9590 power requirements)
The machine is extremely unstable in Windows 10.
Would this be the correct BIOS to run or are the others more stable with an FX9590?
Are there any settings you guys can recommend for running this CPU and board combination?
Thanks and appreciate all the work going into this BIOS