Step 1 worked (NVME2.bin) - computer starts and I can detect PATA SS (An indication of successful NVME Insert Mod?), keyboard backlight also works. Big thanks for bringing the PC back to life again On A side note - I forgot to disconnect the BIOS battery and performed all erase-blank check-write-verify steps with bios battery + main battery connected (oops). For a moment I freaked out, but apparently everything works now. Here comes another challenge - I am trying to install a fresh Windows 10 on drive C: (970 PRO NVME) as bootable. Installation would not let me select that partition, because of the following error:
Is the problem really BIOS related now, or I am missing some workaround to that? Thanks for the help, again @Lost_N_BIOS and @Fernando
@xkwas - Great to see NVME & Backlit KB again It’s OK about the power/battery, some need it and some don’t, those that don’t it’s OK to have connected still (easier to short that way, but OK) Make sure all other drives are removed (Except the NVME and USB you install from). Make the USB initialized as GPT, then put your install media on there. Then install to NVME that is either RAW or already GPT & without any partitions. Set Secure Boot Disabled + CSM Enabled See also, step #4 here in the “This is what you should do” section for other general tips/info - [Guide] How to get full NVMe support for all Systems with an AMI UEFI BIOS
Sorry for delay on menu unlock BIOS, we had company over past few days so I haven’t had much time to play online Will get back on this shortly
@xkwas : Your inserted screenshot indicates, that you either have not started the OS installation in UEFI mode or haven’t deleted all existing partitions of the NVMe SSD before trying to get the OS installed. The Partition 1 of an UEFI bootable system drive is neither named “NVME” nor has it a size of 80 GB.
UEFI bios, Secure boot off and CSM Enabled is the combination to get that OS running. I had to do a fresh install, because my old backup wouldn’t work for some reason on the NVME. From clicking the power button to loading Windows it’s now ~10 seconds, even with the PCIE Gen 2.0 speed limitation Thanks to @Lost_N_BIOS and @Fernando for your support!
Yes, it’s tricky to do a clone from non-NVME to SSD, but you can do it. Happy to hear you finally have Windows installed on NVME now! How long was your boot times before? Sorry, I’ve been behind past several days, so haven’t had a chance to get BIOS made for you yet But don’t worry i did not forget
@xkwas - Send me one more FPT BIOS region dump for now, that way when I do your menu edit, it will be on the exact BIOS region you are using now
I’d say the boot times (also considering the fresh windows install) are about 2x faster now (old boot drive was a Samsung 850 Evo SSD). Here is the latest biosdump.bin (hopefully with the unloced SMI / Bios.
@xkwas - Very nice boot times then Why “hopefully” w/ BIOS/SMI lock disabled? You can confirm by dump/flash with FPT and see if you get error or not, if not then it’s unlocked
You could have just said you confirmed OK, moving forward with unlock now, thanks for putting up with me all this time * Edit - Sorry, please show me image of Security >> Secure Boot Menu (What’s inside there on your end)
Hello, I have had the same problem as you. 40% flash erease using afuwin64, because the g751 restarted suddenly. Do you still have the Ebay Bios Chip dump? I want to flash this one with the programmer… Would be nice to hear from you. Many Thanks
@xkwas - Sorry, confused by your post there, what’s going on?? Did you test the BIOS I sent at #89
@chris_tronic - Please tell me your BIOS chip ID. Then I will have you dump current contents and send to me, but do not do yet, because you may need to use certain software/version based on what your chip ID is Also, do you have ANY previous BIOS backup, can be made with ANY Tool, just needs to be before it was bricked. If yes, keep handy, I will have you send this with programmer dump too once we get there.
Thanks for your quick answer, i need the BIOS BIN File what can be directly programmed to the BIOS CHIP. Before my crash I already have made a AFUWIN BIOS DUMP Rom FILE. But i think this is a non capsuled version and has only 6 MB. Maybe it is possible to recreate the full BIOS File with this?? I dont know… The Winbond Q25x64FV has 8 MB. Maybe you can help me…
Don’t erase or write anything until you upload your dump for me to check. With that, also include the AFU Dump you mentioned you had too. This is BIOS region only, but I will use to make you a complete BIOS. Capsule is not used as part of the BIOS, it’s only checked during flash and stripped off before programing begins, it’s also only 2KB ----------------------
@chris_tronic - Waiting on your AFU BIOS dump from before this happened
@ Lostn BIOS … Hello, the exact same problem happend to me. While flashing with Afuwin the computer shut down and the BIOS was ereased partially. It wont start and cycles evry 20s and the Display and Keyboard is black. Because I flashed my BIOS before I have saved a BIOS Dump with Afuwin. I managed to get a CH134 Programmer and made a readout. MAC Numbers on sticker still available. AC:9E:17:90:94:FE Bios v 211 Here are the Files of my working BIOS Dumps called afuwin.rom: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lx4ncddvcmfvpkt/afuwin.rom?dl=0 an with NVMe Module injected with UEFI TOOL: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl07wkrgc7ltogd/211nvme.rom?dl=0
And here is the Bios Dump made after failed FLASH from my Corrupted BIOS Chip Winbond Q25x64FV soldered on the Mainboard -Readout was done with CHA341A Programmer v 1.34 with clamp on Motherboard BIOS CHIP: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ges1wwono62iih0/readout.bin?dl=0 . I hope you can help me after we already have several PM conversations
@chris_tronic - Here is rebuilt BIOS using your AFUWin.rom as base BIOS region source + NVME mod + Fixed FIT after NVME insert. I assume this is broke in your NVME mod, did not check to confirm but all edit methods break this in this BIOS, so it will always need fixed post-edit. MMTool used for NVME insert here, UEFITool 25 or above breaks BIOS, adds padding file - Never mind, so does ALL versions of MMTool. I will have to do special BIOS dance to edit this BIOS properly for NVME insert, please wait. All this is probably why it crashed on you during update, BIOS region would be broken and FIT Table messed up (This usually only causes microcode issues, so probably not part of the crash/update problem)
I also unlocked FD in this file. If ME FW is corrupted (Shows up as N/A or 0.0.0.0 version) let me know, I left it as it was in your dump in case it was OK BIOS will follow shortly, if I can get it made in next hour, sometimes it takes me several hours to sort this kind of issue out and get it made properly though, so if you don’t see edit with BIOS here in next hour this is why and I’ll try to get done for you tonight.
@chris_tronic - You’re welcome! Thanks for the CPU info, I asked because I have already modified BIOS 213 and could extract the problematic area and use that since it’s already NVME modified, but you are on BIOS 211, and in that mod and BIOS version I do special thing specific to CPU models to make it easier. So I’d have to send you fixed 211 and then have you update to 213, then dump with programmer or FPT etc and then I’d fix again, so kind of a hassle there for you. I’ll work around it instead
I actually have fixed BIOS now, but could not get NVME inserted at end properly while at same time working around the padding issue and getting everything else back in there that I removed interim So, I was trying to sort that out for last hour, I have it in before last module “LAN” it should be OK Please try this, if it fails then I will fix as intended properly tonight when I have more time (out of time now, this is only reason I’m sending you this one now )
On A side note - I forgot to disconnect the BIOS battery and performed all erase-blank check-write-verify steps with bios battery + main battery connected (oops). For a moment I freaked out, but apparently everything works now.
It’s OK about the power/battery, some need it and some don’t, those that don’t it’s OK to have connected still (easier to short that way, but OK)
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